This isn't exactly "After", but a temporary set-up until we're ready
to install the new breaker box/ 12V fuse panel.
Worms! They
seem so innocent, going about the business of amending soil. But just wait
until you open a can of them.
Used and
vintage travel trailers can be the very epitome of a “can of worms.” You may think
you’re starting with a relatively simple project on your punch list. Say,
replacing the exterior traffic lights. Easy-peasy! Should only take a few days
to get them all completed.
One by one,
all the old lights are gradually changed out for new, fancy LEDs. You think
you’re almost finished and ready to move on to the next project. Hook up the
tow vehicle to test your work. What the…? Everything seems to start off OK,
then all of a sudden clearance lights are on when they shouldn’t be, or turn
signals are not blinking when they should. Step on the brakes. All the exterior
lights come on….that can’t be right. Even the license plate light blinks,
though it should only come on with the headlights. The only lights not coming
on at all are the back-ups. Morris Code can be seen from every angle by tapping
the brakes. ZAP! One of the fuses in the vehicle’s tow package has blown.
Folks, when
it comes to the various mechanicals that make your RV a cozy traveling home,
nothing is more aggravating than electrical. (May change our opinion later, but
there will be interior electrical changes made too.) There are three separate electrical
systems which run appliances, lights and outside safety signals; 120V - similar
to residential and runs on shore power or generators, and 12V which uses
batteries (either from your tow vehicle or from the RV).
Anyone who has a basic understanding of these
systems may feel they can comfortably renovate a travel trailer. Be honest about
your ability and patience before committing to such a project. It may take more
than one try to get something working properly. Also, can your budget handle
it? In the effort to make things work, you may find you purchased items you
didn’t need in the first place, you have to purchase additional materials, or
buy replacements for the replacements because something got fried. The motto of
many RV restoration/renovation enthusiasts is, “We do it right because we did
it more than once.”
If you need
expert help, it may be in your best interest and safety to have a certified RV
repair technician assist you. To find a qualified technician we would recommend
getting acquainted with other RV owners in your area, and through RV forums. Be
prepared though. It could take anywhere from a couple of weeks to a month or
more before a shop has an opening. Time of year can make a big difference in RV
repair availability, and some shops are busy year round. It is a safe bet that
even the most ultimate DIYers have used, or know of someone who has used local
RV service centers at some point. Seek their council before you decide to work
with a repair shop. Like many businesses, customer satisfaction varies greatly.
If, after you
have weighed all the pros and cons, and still want to take on a project, we have
a bit of advice. Friends or relatives may be able to help sort some electrical
difficulties, but don’t be too dependent on their assistance. We have a friend
who is a retired master electrician. He possesses an encyclopedic knowledge of residential
electrical and doesn’t mind trouble-shooting with us, but he is the first to
say 12 volt electrical is beyond his scope. Kristal’s dad has many years of
experience with various utility trailers and a couple of RVs. He thinks trailer
wiring is the devil’s work. RV owners’ forums are great for advice, but there
may be differences of opinion. So, do your own research, weed through what
others have done and tried (learn from their mistakes), and be prepared to try
different things. Don’t be afraid to ask questions on the forums and be a part
of lively discussions. Lastly, household wiring must meet specific codes, and so
does wiring for the RV industry. Just like household renovation, sometimes things
must be updated to code. Be prepared and flexible.
Now wait a
minute, we can hear some say. “I thought you checked all this stuff before you
bought your trailer.” Well, yes, we examined as much as we could when we first
looked at it. But someone was living in it at the time, and even if they
weren’t, a buyer can’t reasonably expect to dismantle something before it
belongs to them. Since shore power and a battery were available, it was
possible to turn on lights and run the air conditioner. We noticed some of the
exterior signal lights needed replacement. However, there was nothing to
indicate there were any major problems with any of these lights. When we first
saw our Airstream it was in a backyard. Though there was alley access, it
wasn’t practical to get our Expedition in there to test the signals. If we had
to do it over again, we would have purchased a trailer tester (see below.),
before shopping for a vintage travel trailer. Since our trailer was closed up, mostly
intact, and generally well-cared for when we looked at it, the best we could do
was cross our fingers and make a leap of faith, knowing full well there were
likely to be some unexpected surprises. (Comes with the territory, especially
if you’re a newbie.)
This is the tester
we now have for the
signal lights. The one we
purchased is a 7-way blade plug tester. Be sure
to purchase the correct one for
your application (7-way blade or pin, 6-way, 5-way or 4-way). This tester has a setting for each of
the lights, making it easier
to find a problem child. It also allows us to check all of the exterior
lights without having to hook
up the tow vehicle. It doesn't come with a battery. We highly
recommend purchasing a sealed AGM (doesn’t
need maintenance), but be prepared
to pay as much for
it as the trailer tester itself.
This is the original 12V fuse panel with wiring modified by the PO.
Some wires, such as the the old breakaway switch were impossible to find.
This is the A-frame after being repainted and the new electric jack was installed.
The small black box mounted on the frame behind the jack contains
the excess wires from the new breakaway switch and jack.
We decided to put it in the box for protection from weather & road dirt.
Since the
trailer was open anyway, it seemed like a good time to clean up and repaint the
A-frame, and install the new electric jack & break-away switch. After the
hours to complete those tasks, along with the time it took to trace old wires
and make sure the new 7-way hitch cord was properly connected, it was our
friend’s opinion that the relays we added to the trailer turn signals might be
causing some of the issues we were still having with the exterior lights. We
were at the point where there was nothing else left to try, so the turn signals
were opened up again to remove them. Our friend’s hunch proved correct. Without
the resistors, the traffic lights passed all their tests with flying colors.
So, was it
necessary to do the A-frame work? Yes, it was. These tasks were already on the
punch list anyway. As far as the resistors are concerned, it is a bit annoying
to discover we didn’t need them. It was our decision to include them, since we
didn’t know if our older tow vehicle would recognize the LED signals. The
resistors didn’t cost more than a few dollars each. Still, time matters too.
Just like home improvement, you may as well figure RV renovation is going to
take you three times longer than you thought and possibly double the initial
cost.
If you want to see additional pictures of the A-frame work, including before pics with the old converter box, they can be found on the Airstream forum where we're known as Starstream. Make inquiries here in the comments, and we'll let you know what threads to look at.
If you want to see additional pictures of the A-frame work, including before pics with the old converter box, they can be found on the Airstream forum where we're known as Starstream. Make inquiries here in the comments, and we'll let you know what threads to look at.