Red Willow Recreation Area

We think Prairie sunsets are just as spectacular as any at an exotic beach.

However, the most colorful shows usually occur when there are clouds in the sky.

On this particular evening, thunderstorms were developing

to the north and west of us.

When observed in the wide-open skies of the Great Plains,

it’s much easier to see and appreciate their awesome power.

And a big relief when they go storm elsewhere.

This rec area has a nicely maintained little campground. It’s a few miles north of McCook, NE (SW corner of the state) and easy to reach from Hwy 83. The roads into the campground and down to the reservoir are gravel. Most of the campsites are graveled, with two exceptions. The handicap sites are concrete. They are placed next to the bathrooms, a handy option for those who need or prefer to use the campground’s facilities. We used the site closest to the campground entrance. (Karl is a permanently disabled veteran.) The handicap accessible bathroom next to it doesn’t have his/hers sides. Each unisex restroom has one flush toilet and coin-operated shower. The bathroom near the other handicap site, placed in the middle of the campground, might have vault toilets instead. (Our stay was in August. Memory is getting a bit fuzzy.) It’s easy to identify vault toilets by their (usually) taller ventilation pipes, handy knowledge if you don’t want to be camped next to, or like to use them.

Wherever you stay in the campground, it looks like Red Willow is either a new recreation area or has been recently updated. The gravel, concrete-paved handicap sites, bathrooms and power posts don’t appear very old. Since decent facilities are not always a given at any price range, including more expensive private RV parks, it’s always a nice surprise when you find them. Our only complaint here would be the coin-operated showers. Karl took a shower there and wasn’t certain he got the amount of time he initially paid for. He had to use more quarters in order to rinse off. We’ve now stayed at three NE state-run modern campgrounds. (Platte River SP, Fort Kearney & Red Willow Rec Areas) Each one of them had coin-operated showers, which may be standard for all of their developed campgrounds. So, come prepared with plenty of quarters if you need to use the showers.

In Nebraska, you will find two kinds of state-operated outdoor opportunities; state parks and recreation areas. Like many states, some of the state parks are historical sites and may not offer camping of any kind. The recreation areas offer camping, but when deciding which facilities (park or rec) you wish to visit, you will want to pay close attention to available amenities. In both cases, some are more developed than others.

For those who have never visited Nebraska, there is a reservation system for a certain number of state campsites. Some of the rec areas are first come, first served for all sites. If you don’t find a facility in the online reservation system, it’s because reservations aren’t taken for that location. Both SPs and rec areas require payment of a daily entrance free, but some of the rec areas do not have a manned entrance where your payment is taken and a campsite is assigned. They are self-serve, and at some locations it’s required that guests have the state’s annual recreation pass before using the facility. Red Willow is self-serve and has this requirement. Some other campgrounds may allow you to add the entrance fee to the envelope with your campsite payment. Contact Outdoor Nebraska if you need to verify which rec areas require the annual entrance pass and where at those locations it can be obtained. Otherwise, just make it easy on yourself and purchase the pass online, far enough ahead of a trip so it has enough time to reach you by mail. The pass does cost more for out-of-state visitors. However, daily entrance fees can add up when you’re spending more than a day or two at any of the campgrounds. At the very least, you could break even. Camp long enough, or use the parks/rec areas frequently for other activities, and the pass will actually save money. By the way, the self-service rec areas aren’t unsupervised. They still have state employees who keep things tidy and check up on campers.

The following is the official website for Nebraska’s parks and rec areas. This link is specifically for Red Willow. However, it’s not difficult to navigate if you’re looking for facilities in another area of the state. The official state and McCook tourism sites have lots of useful information, too. There are more camping opportunities in the McCook area, including 3 other rec areas also on reservoirs. Red Willow worked out best for us, since we took Hwy. 83 all the way from Childress, TX to I-80 at Ogallala, NE, while on our way to the Black Hills. Just so you are aware, it’s on a hill above the lake. Some of the sites at the back of the campground have a lake view. If you want a lakeside site, you may be able to find one at the other rec areas.

http://outdoornebraska.gov/redwillow/

https://visitnebraska.com/

https://visitmccook.com/  or http://www.gotomccook.com/

From a Colorado native and former mountain snob (Kristal), if you’re wondering why anyone would deliberately visit a “boring” mid-western state now that the Great American Eclipse is over, ponder this quote by Willa Cather found on the Visit McCook tourism home page. “Anybody can love the mountains, but it takes a soul to love the Prairie.”

Shamrock, Texas

Does the building in the above photo look somewhat familiar? If you’ve seen a certain Disney/Pixar movie, you might be experiencing a bit of Déjà vu. It was built in 1936, when art-deco was still at the height of fashion. And it was once one of many places on the Mother Road where travelers could get fuel for their cars and tummies. (Airstream was founded the same year, and a struggling pharmacy, Wall Drug in South Dakota, started transforming into a tourist destination.)

Ah, the Mother Road, otherwise known as Route 66. It’s on the bucket list of many travelers who love the romance of the open road. RVers are no exception, and for those interested in making the trip, there are plenty of books and other info designed to help find its remnants from Chicago to the West Coast. We want to make the trip ourselves, and with a family event occurring in Ohio next year, we certainly have a good excuse to explore a lot of it on our way there.

Shamrock is in the Texas Panhandle, not too far from the Oklahoma border. It’s on Hwy 83, just south of I-40. The first time we passed thru was in 2007. Just like Radiator Springs, it was a town time seemed to be leaving behind. When we first saw the Conoco station, it may have been around the time Shamrock began the process of restoring and turning it into a visitor’s center. We remember the building looking a bit sad. It was a Sunday, and there was no activity around the concrete/tile relic. We had no idea anything was being done with it. Imagine our surprise to pass thru this year and discover that the downtown businesses located on Hwy 83 appeared busier. Some have interesting vintage signs which have been restored. Kristal would love to photograph those, but stopping there with the trailer in tow wasn’t such a good idea. Instead, we saved our photo ops for the Conoco station, which is further north and faces E. 12^th St (Route 66). If you’re northbound on Hwy 83 (Main St.), it’s to the right. (To the left if coming from the interstate.) Just like downtown, we were delighted to find the building basking in its former glory and open to visitors. It also amused us to see the Tesla charging stations on the east side of the building, a nod to its service station past with a 21^st century twist.

Taking photos of the building, inside and out, is allowed. They also offer free coffee in the café, U Drop In. The gift shop is well-stocked with Route 66 souvenirs. We picked up t-shirts and a snow globe for our younger daughter and her room-mate.

Kristal got the community cookbook for herself. She’s a bit of a collector and often finds them an entertaining read. It was “road tested” too. There are a few cobbler recipes very similar to what she’s seen on TV, when The Salt Lick BBQ joint has been featured. We enjoyed blueberry peach cobbler while staying at San Angelo State Park in Oct.

Some of the small towns north of Amarillo, along with Shamrock, will most likely be the starting point of our Route 66 trip. There are other interesting bits of history, some of it older than the Mother Road, we haven’t seen yet. When we travel in and out of Texas, it’s often an excuse to see more of our home state, too. Can’t think of a better reason to mosey thru the Hill Country or visit Palo Duro Canyon State Park while on our way there.

Want to learn more about Shamrock and Route 66? Start here:

http://shamrocktexas.net/

https://www.nps.gov/nr/travel/route66/tower_station_u-drop-inn_cafe_shamrock.html

https://www.historic66.com/

https://roadtripusa.com/ (Good resource for other themed road trips, too.)

Got Your Back(splash)

Depending on the brand and decade of your vintage trailer, you may have an original metal or retro laminate backsplash you wish to keep. (Or once again, it’s vinyl wallpaper.) In case it’s not salvageable, there is good news if replacement is necessary. Metal backsplashes have never really gone away, especially in commercial applications. Reproduction retro laminate is getting easier to find, along with a variety of chrome trim for countertops. There are at least 2 or 3 online retailers who carry retro laminate. The following vendor is a frequent advertiser in publications like “Vintage Trailer” magazine.

http://www.heffrons.com/retro/swatches/laminates.html

Before we address metal, it’s necessary to mention faux options once again. If you choose to use them, pay close attention to manufacturer instructions concerning proximity to heat sources and maximum amount of heat the product will tolerate. Some options we considered were rated to 140° F. That includes gel tiles and 18” x 24” faux tin backsplash sheets (PVC). The faux tin sheets average about $20 a piece. Still pretty expensive per square foot, and 140° F may not be enough behind a propane stove. It’s not a bad idea to turn on the burners and check the temperature of the stove lid (if you have one) as it rests against the wall. Also think about your cooking habits before making any decisions. How many burners do you normally use when making a meal? If you’re not using the back burner(s) very often, a plastic backsplash will probably be fine. Otherwise, pay attention to manufacturer recommendations and make sure the backsplash material is far enough from a heat source.

Besides safety, other considerations will include ease of installation and upkeep. Trailers like Airstream and some of her silver sisters, with their curved walls may not be so laminate friendly, since it’s hard plastic backed with a very thin sheet of wood. It may have some leeway to bend a bit, but will crack if you force it. Are you restoring? If it was there before, it can be installed again, as long as it stays in the same footprint.

Metal doesn’t have the heat issues found with plastic. It does come with price issues, though. Stainless steel and aluminum are the most common choices. Stainless is generally one of the most expensive options. It doesn’t need any coatings to prevent corrosion. Still, it will have to be cleaned. Have stainless appliances in your house? Then you’re already familiar with the care of stainless steel. Copper is another high dollar option. For those who want to keep the new penny look, copper has to be clear-coated. Aluminum can be somewhat less expensive. Prices will be determined by alloy type, sheet gage (thickness), and type of finish – such as mill or brushed.

For our backsplash, Kristal chose .040 aluminum. Though a bit thicker than sheets found in big box stores, it’s still flexible enough to follow the wall curve. She also wanted a large sheet which would allow a single, seamless piece to be cut. Seams and  textured surfaces are dirt collectors. Since she was looking for a 4’ x 10’ sheet, it took a bit of digging. Shortly before giving up, she stumbled on a racing parts store. They have several locations in Texas and Oklahoma. 4’ x 10’ sheets of aluminum in various racing colors and mill finish are in their inventory. It can only be picked up in-store, and we’re lucky enough to have a location just a few miles north of us. Kristal was happy to find them, especially since the mill finish sheet is under $100. We purchased 2 sheets and were pleasantly surprised by the thickness and quality for the price. (The other sheet is for another project.)

You may be thinking a 4’ x 10’ sheet is a bit excessive. Kristal wanted 2 kitchen backsplash pieces. The only seam she was willing to tolerate is the corner where the curbside and kitchen walls meet. The larger piece, for the curbside wall, is 6’ long and 31” deep. The kitchen wall piece, which will back the sink, is the same depth and 32” long at its widest point. The upper cabinet covers most of the top edges and the countertop will overlap the bottom edges. Both pieces were cut from one sheet with room to spare. There is enough left over to make a bathroom sink backsplash, along with replacement window frames for the 2 lower Vista View windows, on the street side. (The originals were plastic.)

The trickiest part of fabricating the curbside piece was placement of the window. We could have removed the kitchen window, its hardware, and the inside screen frame before putting up the sheet. Then cut out the window opening from outside of the trailer. Unfortunately, the window’s hardware wouldn’t allow it to be so easy. There are slots on each side for the levers which open and close the window. The locking latches at the bottom of the window don’t detach with it. Not really possible to put a sheet of aluminum over those. Using a power tool to cut around the latches and make slots would have been a no-no. Why risk damage to the window frame? Kristal’s pattern paper allowed us to make a mock-up which had the window cut-out with accommodations for the hardware.

Aluminum is another material which may benefit from a clear coat. Type of alloy can make a difference in oxidation. The one issue we had with our aluminum sheets is lack of information on type of alloy. We know who the manufacturer is and tried reaching out to them for more information. They never responded. Kristal wanted to keep maintenance to a minimum, so she decided to err on the side of caution. We purchased satin finish, bare metal automotive clearcoat with a temperature rating to 300° F. The brand we chose comes in 32 oz. cans or spray cans. Kristal decided to try the 32 oz. can because of the square footage she needed to cover. (Our new stove has a glass lid. Glass isn’t a very good heat conductor, but it can still get toasty.)

Clear coat can be applied with a brush. The following site contains instructions for brushing on this type of product. Since she’s more comfortable with spray coatings, Kristal read thru these instructions a couple of times. She also recommends practicing on scrap pieces before applying to the final piece. Part of the reason she found practice useful was more lacking information – what type of brush is best suited for this job. She kept her choices limited to brush types which were easy to find in our neighborhood. Thru trial and error, she determined brushes for oils and varnishes will do a decent job. The backsplash pieces were clear-coated before they were installed in the trailer. Clear-coat in the can is thin enough to run on a vertical surface. Over-spray from an aerosol product will do the same if you get in a hurry. Follow manufacturer instructions concerning curing. Give your pieces the recommended cure time before installing.

https://www.kbs-coatings.com/DiamondFinish-Clear-Directions.html

We installed the backsplash pieces with 3M double-sided VHB tape. Since each wall has a single piece, installation didn’t take too long. It was just a matter of adjusting fit around the window a bit, and making sure each piece was straight before applying pressure to the tape. The tape was allowed to cure for a few days before we caulked the corner. (Which was done prior to installation of the cabinetry.) We also used Olympic rivets on the outside curbside edge to make sure the aluminum stays where it belongs. The sink backsplash is on a flat wall, so the rivets aren’t necessary. However, we will come back later when we’re finishing up the trim work, and make it match the opposite edge.

We’re now finishing the curbside kitchen cabinetry, and we’re getting excited to create the custom countertops we’ve been dreaming of for the past 3 years.

Surrounded

We’ve mentioned previously that RV renovation/restoration presents a host of issues; a big one being a lack of parts. When parts are available, they’re often expensive.

Our tub base is one example. There is only one vendor we know who carries it. They hire someone who makes fiberglass reproductions. It appears to be an exclusive relationship. When tackling a project of this magnitude, it’s a good idea to look for and price any parts you want to replace before you start dismantling your trailer. If you can’t find a replacement or don’t like the price, take a good, hard look at what you have and come up with a plan to refurbish it. You will also want to be careful when removing things not to damage items you want to reuse. We accidentally put a small crack in one corner of our tub, where the plastic happened to be a bit thin. But it was easy enough to repair with JB Weld and tub repair epoxy. After that we smoothed out the interior a bit and painted it metallic silver.

In case you’re wondering, we have noticed the trend to use residential tub/shower systems. Many new RV shower systems are designed to look like residential plumbing, though sometimes a bit smaller. However, it’s possible none of these will be compatible with your vintage trailer. We had a hard time finding an RV shower base which was small enough to fit the area allotted to it. Never mind a matching surround which would work with a contoured wall. Most were going to take too much space from an already narrow hallway and tiny bathroom. It’s a trade-off we made when we chose a center bath AS model with a back bedroom, over a rear bath with twin beds.

Putting glass or ceramic tile in a travel trailer can also cause significant problems, if you plan to travel with it. Tile is heavy. The weight of every material you put in your trailer has to be considered. The manufacturer constructed the chassis to support a certain amount of weight and not much more. Go over the original manufacturer’s dry weight by a significant amount, and you will have to make sacrifices. Such as what you will be able to pack later for a trip. Tile will also not survive the rigors of travel without cracking, breaking, or just falling off the wall. The big, fancy Class A diesel pushers can get away with real tile because their chassis and suspension are far heavier than a travel trailer. Not to mention they usually come with air-ride. Some folks like peel & stick gel tile as an RV solution. That’s fine for small projects and dry areas. It’s kind of expensive per square foot and isn’t always appropriate for wet areas. If you can’t seal it up enough to keep water where it belongs, don’t even consider it.

Depending on the age of your trailer, the tub/shower surround may have been covered with a product you don’t want to reuse. Our 1979 model had vinyl wallpaper inside the shower. We didn’t find any serious water damage when we dismantled the interior. Kind of surprising considering the vinyl was starting to peel in the corners. It’s likely the POs didn’t use the shower very much. Finding a replacement meant keeping an open mind and being a bit patient. Some 4’ x 8’ waterproof panels are not flexible. Those weren’t an option for us. The back wall/ceiling of our shower follows the curved shape of our trailer. We managed to locate a product called Polywall at one of the big box home improvement stores. It could be rolled if you need to do so. Though it’s better to store it flat if not using immediately.

Kristal used large sheets cut from her roll of pattern making paper to make templates for the surround. Airstreams are tricky when you’re trying to cut walls and cabinetry to fit the curves. You can try to use the old pieces as templates. Just don’t be surprised if there isn’t an exact fit when installing the new stuff. Trim & finish work was how the factory compensated for less than perfect carpentry. Not much different from the way tract houses are constructed, really. By making paper patterns, Kristal was able to compensate for areas where the shower walls didn’t quite touch the interior skin. There were also some other adjustments which required an accurate pattern. We had constructed a partial wall to fill in the back shower. It replaced an awkward ledge the factory constructed to fill in the gap between the tub seat and trailer wall. There is enough overlap of the side wall pieces to finish the corners with PVC quarter round trim for a snug, waterproof fit. We also made another change by moving the entrance from one side, to the front of the shower. The bottom of the tub measures 27” wide by 24” deep. Wall overlap of the tub base made the original opening about 22”. A 27” entrance is far more convenient even if it means entering from the hallway. The tub base has a lip around 3 ½ sides which was riveted to the walls. The lip disappears at the original opening. Kristal designed her pattern for that wall to follow the contours of the tub down to the floor of the tub bottom. She used painter’s tape on the back of the paper to secure it to the walls. The paper overlapped the ceiling and tub base. With a Sharpee marker, she traced the wall’s outline along the ceiling and to create an overlap for the tub base lip. It worked out well. The final pieces only needed a small amount of trimming to correct the fit.

In case you’re like us and white isn’t what you want in your shower surround, Polywall can be painted. Kristal chose a brush-on oil-based silver metallic. She wanted something impervious to water after it cures. It was going to require too many cans of spray paint to be cost effective. We purchased a 32 oz. can instead. There is some paint left over. She painted the Polywall pieces after they were cut to shape and before installing in the trailer. Far less mess when painting a horizontal surface.

Oil-based paint brushed on plastic can do interesting things. The curved shape of our trailer and the depth of the tub base meant we needed a piece of Polywall for each section, a total of 3 sheets. There was enough scrap for Kristal to play with. Some special effects can be time consuming on a larger piece. Plus, it really doesn’t take a lot of paint to get the necessary coverage. Too much paint will take longer to cure. Even if painting in a temperature controlled environment, the paint cure can still be effected by humidity at least a little bit, when you live in a high humidity environment like we do. Painting outside means finding a way to protect your work from any debris created by plants, bugs & the wind. Check the manufacturer’s instructions before painting outside. Many paints don’t like high temps or humidity.

Also look for the labels on the Polywall. They contain important info, like which side gets glued. A small label in a corner provides recommended adhesives for attaching the product to a surface. When purchasing, look for the amount of coverage provided on the adhesive label. Make sure you’re buying enough to keep the paneling where it belongs. This is not the time to be stingy.

Until the Polywall was up, we didn’t have the side walls secured. They are now attached, and the next steps are to close the front of the tub base and secure the tub lip to the walls. Once that task is finished, the Polywall will be glued to the lip, the trim will be installed, and all the seams will be sealed with clear silicone.

We had explored the possibility of installing a shower door with the new, wider opening. It may still get done at a later date. We have at least 2 possibilities under consideration.  For the time being, we’re using a tension rod and shower curtain. We happened to stumble over a tension rod which was short enough for the 27” width, during one of our many home improvement store forays. We are contemplating our next journey. Some of the itinerary includes the usual family visits to IA and SD. Campgrounds we’re familiar with will probably mean using showers/bathrooms we know are kept decent. When they’re not, or a campground charges extra to have hot water, having a working bathroom of our own, no matter how tiny, will be nice. At any rate, it will be a good opportunity to determine if we really need to pay the higher price for a shower door.

It’s a Gas…

I suppose you could go in a couple of directions with such a title, including ones not so appropriate, but since this is an RVing blog – we’re talkin’ propane.

For those entering the RV world with a brand new rig, you may be thinking there isn’t much to worry over. As long as the tanks are full, you’re good to go. Not so fast. Remember, those tanks contain an explosive substance which can not only ruin your day. Anyone within your vicinity will be affected too. It’s not a bad idea to have the propane system and appliances checked before ever using them, preferably at the dealership during the delivery walk-thru. There is always the possibility something broke or disconnected during shipment from the factory to the dealership. If there is a problem, make sure a warranty covers the fix. Pay close attention to manufacturer instructions concerning safe operation of the entire system, read up on how the regulator works (be prepared to replace it every few years), make sure your interior alarms are always working, and resign yourself to the fact that it really is a good idea to have a properly equipped professional inspect the system periodically*. Once a year is a good rule of thumb if your RV gets a lot of use and/or travels long distances regularly. Propane is another good reason to take yourself and the new RV to the many boot camps offered by various organizations. New-to-RVing vintage owners, who purchase from a restoration professional, should also follow this advice.

Here’s one good article about RV propane. Though it’s skewed a bit toward motorhomes, the info is applicable to any RV with a propane system.

http://www.rvdoctor.com/2001/01/avoiding-pitfalls-of-rv-propane-system.html

Ambitious DIYers shouldn’t do anything with their propane until thoroughly educated. Whatever you do, don’t just assume the old system is fine. Remember, vintage is classified as being 25 yrs. or older. Copper, being a soft metal, can degrade over time. Which means it becomes brittle. A trailer which traveled lots of miles has had plenty of opportunities for things to break and leak. While water leaks are a big problem, they are nothing compared to gas.

Ok, so you need new propane lines. What’s next? If you’ve done your research and really don’t feel comfortable doing this job yourself, hire RV professionals to do the work for you. Proceeding on your own? Then read on to learn of our experience replacing our propane lines.

It seems to make the most sense to replace like with like in this instance. Darn it! This is another project where you won’t find it that easy. Copper is one of those commodities where the manufacturers don’t seem to have a standard nomenclature. Until you learn to decipher it. To install a new copper system, you also need to know there is no such thing as one-stop shopping, unless you have a specialty supplier in your area. Even then fittings in less common sizes might not be easy to find. The specialty supplier down the road from us had very few flared fittings in their inventory. (Several empty bins though.) You might find an RV dealership who sells propane fittings. Visit those in your area that have parts departments and request their catalog. Some will have a really comprehensive book. If their store doesn’t actually stock items, they will order them for you. Our gas line is now finished, and the most aggravating and time consuming part was assembling all the components. It took us longer to find everything than it did to install it.

We must mention briefly, after consulting with our RV repair shop, that they were phasing out the use of copper for gas lines, and replacing it with black pipe. However, it’s not our area of expertise. Going the route of black pipe would definitely mean hiring a pro as far as we’re concerned.

To do a copper system, here’s your basic shopping list.

https://www.nachi.org/gallery/images/plumbing/general/copper-supply-pipes.jpg

Type L Copper - The walls of some copper tubing are thinner than others and aren’t recommended for propane lines (Type M). Type L is still malleable but not as likely to break if you need to bend it a bit. Type K, which has even thicker walls, might be suggested by some. We found it difficult to locate.

You need to consider the routes of your lines carefully. Make sure nothing is going to pinch, rub, or break the pipe. Be careful not to introduce sharp bends. They can create creases, which may cause premature failure. Buy a bit more than you think is needed. Following the same route as the manufacturer is probably OK, but make sure the original holes in the belly pan will provide a tight fit when securing the mounting brackets. If not, fill or cover them, otherwise you might eventually get water inside the pans where you don’t want it.

Flare Brass Fittings/Connectors

These fittings include flare nuts, tees and elbows; as well as gate style shut-off valves for each of your appliances. Do not use compression fittings. If you’ve never used flared fittings, try to find an opportunity to get a hands-on education before replacing your propane lines. Besides the possibility of wasting too much material, this is not the time to be learning/practicing a new skill.

Pipe Cutter/Flaring Tools

Aluminum LIne Clamps

Use the type pictured. The line has to be secured on the underside of your trailer, outside of the belly pans. Bare metal brackets are not a good idea. Friction due to travel will wear on the copper, and eventually cause breaks in the line. Make sure the clamps are the correct size for your tubing. The reason for keeping your propane lines from vibrating too much should be obvious. (If you've read some of our other posts you may have noticed the mention of many not-nice roads.)

Two-stage Regulator - Connected to the tanks and main line. The main line connection will be flare to pipe.

Hoses -To connect the tanks to the Regulator, and a Hose to connect the Regulator to the main line. (Must be rated for propane use.)

Here are the basics of a propane system. When your tanks are filled, it will be around 80%. Only gas vapor should be entering your lines. (Not liquid) The head room in your tanks allows that process to start, and accommodates any expansion of gas during temperature fluctuations. The regulator controls the flow of the vapor, making sure the appropriate amount is entering the gas lines. The main line carries the vapor to the rest of the system, meaning it’s the largest in diameter. The gas must be reduced before it reaches the appliances. Therefore, the lines to the appliances have to be smaller. The main rule, regardless of the pipe diameters you end up using, is always large to small. Not small to large. No exceptions. The main line diameter is determined by how many runs and total BTU’s.

Sounds simple doesn’t it. We thought so too, until we started shopping for parts. Then we encountered the conundrum known as manufacturer labeling. (Cue maniacal laugh) The copper supply lines and fittings come in two designations. Inner Diameter (ID) and Outer Diameter (OD). We knew our old lines were 5/8” and 3/8” OD. Once we got it sorted out that we needed Type L copper, it got easier to decipher the labeling on the pipe. At the big box home improvement stores, the 5/8” copper pipe is labeled as ½”. Which is referring to the inner diameter. When looking for the flared fittings, this pipe will require 5/8” OD flare nuts, which sit on the outside of the pipe. The fittings which thread into the flare nuts should be the same size. Confused yet? Now, here’s our most frustrating part of dealing with 5/8” fittings. We needed 5/8”x3/8”x5/8” tees to reduce from the main line to the appliances. That particular fitting is hard to find at the big boxes. We did finally locate it at a hardware store, along with the gate valves we wanted. Since we hadn’t bought them anywhere else, we got most of the other fittings there too. However, they were short on the number of tees and valves we wanted, which resulted in a special order from their warehouse. That order came up one short on a tee. We got lucky and did manage to dig up 1 and a spare on Amazon.

The 3/8” Type L (1/4” ID) wasn’t totally trouble free either. Once again it was labeling which was tripping us up. We could find 2 foot pieces of tubing labeled as Type L at the box store, but we needed longer lengths. It’s not a good idea to use lots of connections until you reach your desired length. Connections are potential leaks. None of the copper coils were labeled as Type L. The only one which came in the correct diameter was labeled as Refrigeration, was 50 ft. long and a little over a dollar a foot. (Ouch!) Turns out this is actually Type L, with an added step of capping the ends, ensuring no moisture is inside the tube. It took us more than a week to dig up and verify the information.

Needless to say, no matter how you approach this project, pro or DIY, it isn’t very cheap to do. Buying the copper doesn’t seem so bad. But, by the time you have all your brass fittings you could be looking at a sizable chunk of change. Your actual cost will be determined by the size of your RV and number of appliances using gas.

The expense will not stop with the gas lines either. Beyond just filling your tanks (AKA cylinders), there are government required inspections which you will need to do periodically, depending on age. There are refillable and exchangeable tanks. Don’t just assume your RV comes with refillables. New or used, make sure you know what kind of cylinders are being included. New tanks should come with OPD valves (overfill protection device). Older tanks will have OPDs if a previous owner used them long-term, and had the valves changed when their use was first required. Some information we’ve seen, mentioned refillable steel tanks can’t have the valves replaced, while aluminum tanks can. This information is best verified by a certified inspector. If your tanks fail an inspection, due to the valves, the inspector will let you know if they meet the requirement to receive new ones. And yes, it is an additional cost. The following articles explain the basics of propane tanks and OPD valves. To extend the life of steel tanks, keep abuse to a minimum. Excessive corrosion and dents are other reasons a steel tank fails inspection, in which case it will have to be replaced. As far as exchangeable tanks are concerned, you will want to do a convenience/cost comparison of “rental” vs. ownership of tanks. (Get a good, easy-to-use tank monitor regardless of tank type, so you don’t find yourself out of propane at an inopportune time. For exchangeable tanks, it’s best to take them back empty because you might not get credit for any gas still in the tank.)

We were fortunate our trailer came with two 40lb. aluminum cylinders. If you conclude you need to purchase, we recommend buying the aluminum. Yes, they are more expensive and may be heavier because of thicker walls. But they last a long time. Our tanks are original to our trailer and other than a couple of small scuffs, don’t look their age. (Yes, they have the OPDs. Thank you, P.O.)

http://www.propane101.com/propanecylinders.htm

http://www.propanetankstore.com/what-is-an-opd/

http://www.propane101.com/opdcylindervalves.htm

For those who are wondering if this info is really necessary, we say it’s better to be informed up front, before you decide if a certain dream suits your reality. Never mind the fact your dream is called a Recreational Vehicle. To all levels of government, you are transporting a hazardous material when that vehicle is carrying propane on a public roadway. At the very least, this activity is under the authority of the Department of Transportation (DOT). Some states will require additional certification for inspectors, like Texas. Here inspection of propane cylinders requires Railroad Commission certification, too. Such licensing might be optional for the RV professionals you hire to pressure test your lines. Certified or not, a trained professional will have the appropriate equipment to test for leaks and properly adjust the pressure of your regulator. The regulator can’t be adjusted with a spray bottle of soapy water. Just so you are aware, some LP refilling locations like gas stations, farm supply stores or RV parks, while legally liable to identify if it’s safe to refill your tanks, might not be licensed for inspection or equipped to replace old valves or defective OPDs. When it’s time to have your tanks annually inspected, you may have to take them to a dedicated LP supplier instead. (Blue Flame is one example.)

⃰ The only part of your propane system actually required by governments to be periodically inspected, are the propane tanks. We’re not recommending inspection of your gas lines due to any laws on the books, but because it’s a best practice that falls under the category of common sense. Though it’s not even required for a new system, why would you risk all the work you’ve done, any new or restored appliances, and most importantly, your family’s safety to save some money? Yes, paying a pro to check your propane could cost a couple hundred dollars. Seems like pretty cheap life insurance to us.

The following info is for the DIYer in particular, concerning the order of procedures.  Don’t be afraid to establish a relationship with RV professionals before you start any work on your gas lines. If you’re planning to have them inspect your system, they would prefer you know what you’re doing. Not certain about your tanks? Just plan on getting them inspected and filled before the pro checks your work. They should have been disconnected from the main line well before you removed the old copper, anyway. Do not let gas into your system before the pro is scheduled to check everything. They must be present the first time the gas is turned on. We received this information from a professional RV repairman. He has a mobile business and happens to store his trailer in the same storage lot we use. He helped us clear up some other things, such as reusing flared brass fittings, which he advised against. The only reason we even considered reusing the old fittings was the initial inability to find our 5/8” tees. By the way, if you start this project and decide you’re not comfortable with it, having an established relationship with a pro might help you get service a bit faster.

Still ready to take the plunge and get your RV? Go forth with confidence and enjoy your search. Remember, knowledge is power. Your knowledge will hopefully keep you from embarking on a restoration project you’re not prepared to finish. You also won’t regret knowing you can enjoy the benefits of your propane system, due to proper installation and maintenance.

A fellow AS owner gave us the info about flared fittings at the hardware store. Though we’re both from the same area north of Houston, he and his wife initially made contact with us thru Airforums, before they bought a trailer last fall. While they are DYI and RV travel newbies who have occasionally picked our brains, they paid us back big time with the info. Those 5/8”-3/8” tees were really giving us fits. Sometimes, it can take a village to finish a project such as RV restoration/renovation. And you never know where useful information is going to come from. M & M, if you happen to read this post, thank you from the bottom of our hearts. You saved us from a lot of aggravation.

Security!

Whoo hoo! Cabinets – with doors!

These days security concerns a lot of people, for a variety of reasons. Regrettably, it’s not something you can escape when you enter the RV world. Loss due to theft can be an issue, and most often occurs when people are traveling. Generators and other items are sometimes snatched from pickup beds at gas stations or shopping centers. But loss due to theft is not always the most common one to happen to RVers, when they’re on the road.

More often than not, the contents of your RV will need to be protected from you. We mentioned before that travel trailers do not float like clouds, unless you want to compare them to tornados or gale force storms. Don’t be fooled by sales people or vintage aficionados who claim certain RVs tow and ride like a dream. (No, we’re not referring to high-end Class A motorhomes. There are exceptions when you have really deep pockets.) Being proud Airstream owners, and now having some long-distance experience, we can say our curvy old girl isn’t so difficult to tow. But even with fancy new torsion axles and shocks, things still get bounced around. On our last two trips with an aluminum tent, everything traveled on the floor because we put it there. The new axles were being pitted against that crumbling infrastructure which occasionally makes the news. There are some locations where the road construction never seems to be completed. Or highways that appear never to have been repaired after the initial construction. For the most part, our strategy averted disaster. Except it was a pain in the butt to move things around every time we traveled to a different location. Then there was the bottle of salad dressing which managed to escape the refrigerator, the day before we got home from the last trip.

Oh, happy day! We now have cabinetry. The street side is almost completed. Can’t deny we’re looking forward to things being put away, and staying there, before we hit the road again. However, keeping everything where it belongs goes beyond putting things in a cabinet. Don’t believe us? Look up some videos from folks who have made the leap to full-time RV living, and discovered the contents of their trailers escaped while on the road.

Cabinet door lifts are nice to have, especially on doors which are over your head.

These lifts operate with tension instead of gas and are adjustable.

They’re just a bit tricky to install though, since there isn’t an obvious left or right.

Yes, RV manufacturers do put gas struts and other “security” devices on cabinet doors. But they’re not fool-proof from a lack of common sense. If doors are hit by an unsecured object with enough force, they will pop open. When it comes to packing your RV, don’t forget you can’t exceed the manufacturer’s weight recommendation. So, how many heavy things do you really need to bring? It’s OK if you need a few. Just keep those items on, or near, the floor. Kristal has a cast iron skillet and antique Dutch oven. She’s been considering the area under the stove, where the furnace used to be, as the storage area for all the cookware. Which not only puts it where it’s used the most, but will keep those heavy items from damaging cabinet doors and other stuff while doing a swan dive. It also goes without saying that glass and other breakables should be kept to a minimum and away from top shelves, too. If you insist on glamping with wine, you will definitely want to be smart about the location of your bottles and glasses. Not to mention some sort of cushioning between/around glasses and other breakables is a good idea. Treat that stuff like you would if you were moving the contents of your household from one traditional house to another. (Maybe kitchen and bath linens could do double duty? Don’t neglect the cushion power of a few paper towel rolls, either.)

Of course, there are other things which aren’t pleasant when they escape, such as bags of flour and eggs. After our salad dressing incident, we were pretty motivated to find that latch for the refrigerator. Many experienced RVers use air-tight storage containers and bins inside cabinets/refrigerator to organize contents and keep them from moving. Taking items out of original packaging, or placing it in a larger container can help minimize spills and breakage. Stores which specialize in RV accessories do sell organization products, not that it’s your only option. The dollar and discount retailers can be a good place to get storage products which could do the job as well. We’re not opposed to saving a few dollars on such stuff, but we do have to admit we’re rather fond of The Container Store.

Which brings us to the sliding Elfa wire mesh baskets in our pantry. There are 6 of them on three shelves. While pull out pantries can be nice, we wanted easy access to some pantry items without the complication of dealing with the necessary hardware. (Putting dividers and other carpentry into a space with curved exterior walls is tricky enough.) These baskets are designed for residential use and have at least 2 different configurations for your kitchen. We chose flat, matching tracks for each basket in the pantry. The tracks do have stops at the back. Of course, there is nothing to lock them in place at the front, since they are technically intended for typical household use. It’s been on our minds that we would need to find a solution for traveling, since we didn’t want them banging into the pantry doors. During one of our recent trips to the big box home improvement store, we found our solution in the same isle that has the decorative cabinet hardware. One section is dedicated to utility hinges, locks, etc. The following photos show our find and how it works.

Technically, this is the type of lock you use on the inside of doors or gates.

However, the swiveling latch actually gives you some flexibility in the way you install it.

One hardware piece was mounted horizontally on the shelf,

while the other is vertical on the basket.

You can remove the latch if it’s getting in the way during installation.

When determining placement, make sure you have enough room

to pull the latch from the top hardware piece.

The beauty of this gadget is the ability to lie flat on the shelf when unlocked.

It doesn’t get in the way of opening and closing the basket.

You shouldn’t be able to misplace it either.

Just don’t forget to lock the basket again before taking to the road.

There is nothing wrong with the included screws.

But they are a bit long for the inside of the basket and the pointed tips

can damage food packaging.

The screws were replaced with #6 x ½” bolts with nuts.

Two bolts in opposing corners are enough.

This sash lock secures the lower pantry doors.

We’ve mentioned there will be plenty of clean-up in your RV. Vintage or new, keeping your belongings secured is a matter which will require your attention. Hopefully, before you embark on your maiden voyage. It’s a joy killer when you’ve dreamed and planned travel to a special destination; only to finally reach it and find a big mess when you unlock your RV door.