Our Blue Heaven (Almost)

The shades over the Vista View windows still need to be painted.

We were going to wait until we had the opportunity to break out the inner glass panes

so the damaged window tint could be removed.

But we're still trying to find the gasket that would secure the remaining glass.

We decided to paint the shades this week.

Kristal is going to make Roman shades for the big windows, with a dark teal

similar to the front cabinet. The Vista shades will be painted the same color.

Among the many projects we’ve been working on since gutting the interior, cleaning and painting the walls has been one of the big ones. The painting is mostly finished now, with many touchups completed. Outlets have also been spray painted so they blend in better with the walls. (They were an ivory plastic which had become discolored with age.)

These are the bathroom outlets.

One is 12V (top) and the other is 110V. 

Before spray painting these, the 12V opening was covered to keep paint out of it.

Printed pieces of paper from the computer printer were cut to fit around all outlets

being painted to protect the walls from over-spray.

(Paper sheet left mostly intact with one slit cut to center, where a small rectangle was cut to fit

back side of outlet. Paper was then taped to close the slit and secured to wall with painters tape.)

Most outlets in our Airstream are one-piece units, meaning there isn't a

separate plate on the outside.

They can't be removed completely from the wall without cutting wires.

However, if you're careful, they can be pulled out enough to paint the walls behind them.

This one of the living room outlets.

The spray paint color is a little darker than the wall color, but overall a good match.

We have discovered that some retailers, like Lowes are now starting to make

spray paints in the same shades for Valspar paint colors they have

as roll-on latexes, etc.

The dark blue spray paint we used on the inside of the front cabinet and screen frames

is one of those colors.

If there is a matching spray paint, it will be noted on the paint chip.

Of course, if having exact shades in all your paints really matters to you,

choose your colors from the spray paints first.

Stores like Lowes, which have their own line of canned and spray paints,

probably have color mixing formulas for the shades found in their spray paint inventory.

PS: If you want to see our latest updates for the Airstream, most of them can be found on the Air Forums, with a lot more pictures. Unfortunately, we don't have enough time right now to spend on both the forum and our blog. Besides, the forum is where we go to get assistance from the experts. To find us, use the member search. Our user name is "Starstream". 

Travel Trailers are Like Onions

When renovating an older RV, you must have a priority list. Everyone’s goals are different. Some may want everything to be done before heading into the great unknown.  Others don’t mind starting their explorations with less, knowing they are on track to achieve their dream RV. Whatever your personal goals, you must have an order in which you tackle your punch-list to keep on track. Just be prepared to make some adjustments occasionally. Sometimes tackling a task is dictated by the availability of a certain part, or getting it for the best possible price. (We’ve noticed that RV parts sometimes tend to be less expensive in winter, when many people have their units in storage, and may not be thinking about repairs until they’re ready to travel again.) There is always the possibility some of your plans will change once your trailer is in your possession. When your dream becomes reality, you will have the chance to examine things closer. Some items that are old and tired may be removed because they just aren’t worth repairing.

One of our major projects at the top of the list is replacing the fresh water holding tank because we know it leaks. The gray and black tanks are a mystery right now. At some point the PO(s) decided to remove the toilet and replaced it with a porta-pottie. We haven’t found anything in their notes indicating a problem with those tanks. The floor mounting for a toilet looks new, so they may have intended to put in a new unit but weren’t able to finish the task. In order to assess all the holding tanks we have to “peel one layer of the onion.” Doing so means elevating the trailer on jacks in order to remove the belly pans covering them, or to take up some of the interior sub-floor. But only if it can be done without disturbing the interior walls. (The POs did an excellent job keeping water damage to a minimum, so it’s not necessary to totally dismantle this trailer.) We’re crossing our fingers that the black and gray tanks are intact. Direct replacements have been difficult to find for our 1979 Airstream Sovereign with center bath /rear bedroom. It appears the roomier rear bath tended to be more popular and more units were produced. But in our search for a trailer, we decided early on that the accompanying set of center twin beds didn’t appeal us. It does demonstrate, though, that rare can sometimes be problematic.

In order to complete a punch-list task, it may be necessary to accomplish something different first. In our effort to reach the tanks, we decided removing the entire interior would help. From the beginning we knew the old carpet was going.

Continuing examination of all the cabinetry led to the conclusion they really were not salvageable. The vinyl-covered aluminum / plastic upper cabinets had cracks at various stress points. The cabinets’ wood-look paper exterior was delaminating and once started, just kept peeling off. There was actually a two-fold reason for removing this stuff first. One, it will reduce the weight of the trailer a bit before putting it on jacks. Two, it opens up the access to the electrical and plumbing systems.

Depending on your make/model of trailer and a PO’s renovations, you may discover that a good portion of wires and pipes are not behind the interior walls. Instead they’re hidden in closets and cabinets.

When you know you’re not saving something, anything like finesse or patience might go out the window. However, you can not completely abandon them. Those hidden wires might be perfectly re-usable, especially if they’re copper. Unless you’re planning to completely dismantle your RV, you don’t want to damage any of the important stuff before you have a chance to identify its purpose. Do yourself a favor. Take the time to see how components are connected to each other—take notes and pictures of everything before just pulling and cutting away. The piece of cabinetry that seemed like the easiest place to start may be connected to another piece in a hidden place.  There was a reason for the manufacturer or PO to construct things the way they did. Fastest way to install might be one reason, but the interior of a trailer needs to be secured in a manner that keeps everything intact while traveling. (“Floats on Clouds” is not a suitable nickname. It will be more like “Hurricane Trailer”.) Impatience can lead to more work down the road if care is not taken when dismantling.

As far as our holding tanks go, they will all have to be connected to various plumbing components under and inside the trailer. (Such as a new pump for fresh water. The old one was located inside the former closet.)

Where appropriate, we plan to replace a lot of old water lines with PEX tubing. Our interior has been peeled away for a couple of weeks now. Once the major mechanicals are updated and painting of the interior walls is completed, we’ll install new flooring and build new cabinetry. For the most part, we will duplicate the original floor plan, with only minor modifications. After all, the original layout is one of the things that hooked us into this big aluminum onion.

A Can of Worms

This isn't exactly "After", but a temporary set-up until we're ready 

to install the new breaker box/ 12V fuse panel.

Worms! They seem so innocent, going about the business of amending soil. But just wait until you open a can of them.

Used and vintage travel trailers can be the very epitome of a “can of worms.” You may think you’re starting with a relatively simple project on your punch list. Say, replacing the exterior traffic lights. Easy-peasy! Should only take a few days to get them all completed_.

One by one, all the old lights are gradually changed out for new, fancy LEDs. You think you’re almost finished and ready to move on to the next project. Hook up the tow vehicle to test your work. What the…? Everything seems to start off OK, then all of a sudden clearance lights are on when they shouldn’t be, or turn signals are not blinking when they should. Step on the brakes. All the exterior lights come on….that can’t be right. Even the license plate light blinks, though it should only come on with the headlights. The only lights not coming on at all are the back-ups. Morris Code can be seen from every angle by tapping the brakes. ZAP! One of the fuses in the vehicle’s tow package has blown.

Folks, when it comes to the various mechanicals that make your RV a cozy traveling home, nothing is more aggravating than electrical. (May change our opinion later, but there will be interior electrical changes made too.) There are three separate electrical systems which run appliances, lights and outside safety signals; 120V - similar to residential and runs on shore power or generators, and 12V which uses batteries (either from your tow vehicle or from the RV).

Anyone who has a basic understanding of these systems may feel they can comfortably renovate a travel trailer. Be honest about your ability and patience before committing to such a project. It may take more than one try to get something working properly. Also, can your budget handle it? In the effort to make things work, you may find you purchased items you didn’t need in the first place, you have to purchase additional materials, or buy replacements for the replacements because something got fried. The motto of many RV restoration/renovation enthusiasts is, “We do it right because we did it more than once.”

If you need expert help, it may be in your best interest and safety to have a certified RV repair technician assist you. To find a qualified technician we would recommend getting acquainted with other RV owners in your area, and through RV forums. Be prepared though. It could take anywhere from a couple of weeks to a month or more before a shop has an opening. Time of year can make a big difference in RV repair availability, and some shops are busy year round. It is a safe bet that even the most ultimate DIYers have used, or know of someone who has used local RV service centers at some point. Seek their council before you decide to work with a repair shop. Like many businesses, customer satisfaction varies greatly.

If, after you have weighed all the pros and cons, and still want to take on a project, we have a bit of advice. Friends or relatives may be able to help sort some electrical difficulties, but don’t be too dependent on their assistance. We have a friend who is a retired master electrician. He possesses an encyclopedic knowledge of residential electrical and doesn’t mind trouble-shooting with us, but he is the first to say 12 volt electrical is beyond his scope. Kristal’s dad has many years of experience with various utility trailers and a couple of RVs. He thinks trailer wiring is the devil’s work. RV owners’ forums are great for advice, but there may be differences of opinion. So, do your own research, weed through what others have done and tried (learn from their mistakes), and be prepared to try different things. Don’t be afraid to ask questions on the forums and be a part of lively discussions. Lastly, household wiring must meet specific codes, and so does wiring for the RV industry. Just like household renovation, sometimes things must be updated to code. Be prepared and flexible.

Now wait a minute, we can hear some say. “I thought you checked all this stuff before you bought your trailer.” Well, yes, we examined as much as we could when we first looked at it. But someone was living in it at the time, and even if they weren’t, a buyer can’t reasonably expect to dismantle something before it belongs to them. Since shore power and a battery were available, it was possible to turn on lights and run the air conditioner. We noticed some of the exterior signal lights needed replacement. However, there was nothing to indicate there were any major problems with any of these lights. When we first saw our Airstream it was in a backyard. Though there was alley access, it wasn’t practical to get our Expedition in there to test the signals. If we had to do it over again, we would have purchased a trailer tester (see below.), before shopping for a vintage travel trailer. Since our trailer was closed up, mostly intact, and generally well-cared for when we looked at it, the best we could do was cross our fingers and make a leap of faith, knowing full well there were likely to be some unexpected surprises. (Comes with the territory, especially if you’re a newbie.)

This is the tester we now have for the signal lights. The one we purchased is a 7-way blade plug tester. Be sure to purchase the correct one for your application (7-way blade or pin, 6-way, 5-way or 4-way). This tester has a setting for each of the lights, making it easier to find a problem child. It also allows us to check all of the exterior lights without having to hook up the tow vehicle. It doesn't come with a battery. We highly recommend purchasing a sealed AGM (doesn’t need maintenance), but be prepared to pay as much for it as the trailer tester itself.

This is the original 12V fuse panel with wiring modified by the PO.

Some wires, such as the the old breakaway switch were impossible to find.

Our trailer did come with a service manual and quite a few notes from the previous owner (PO). They’ve been both a blessing and a curse, especially when we discovered some substantial wiring changes were made at the front of the trailer and not really documented. We were aware from the beginning that the PO had removed the gaucho couch, necessitating relocation of the converter/charger and one 12V battery to the A-frame. (There were oringinally 2 batteries.) During the testing of our signal lights, we became concerned the trailer’s old 7-way harness wire may have a short which was causing our problems with the signals. In which case, the new plug we installed wasn’t going to help. Replacing the cord required removing the metal box holding the old converter & battery, opening up the bottom front of the trailer, and removing the interior front panel that covered the wires & 12V fuse box inside. There was more than a little bit of cursing. The converter box was a bastard to remove, and the wiring didn’t resemble anything in the Airstream service manual or any online diagrams.

This is the A-frame after being repainted and the new electric jack was installed.

The small black box mounted on the frame behind the jack contains

the excess wires from the new breakaway switch and jack.

We decided to put it in the box for protection from weather & road dirt.

Since the trailer was open anyway, it seemed like a good time to clean up and repaint the A-frame, and install the new electric jack & break-away switch. After the hours to complete those tasks, along with the time it took to trace old wires and make sure the new 7-way hitch cord was properly connected, it was our friend’s opinion that the relays we added to the trailer turn signals might be causing some of the issues we were still having with the exterior lights. We were at the point where there was nothing else left to try, so the turn signals were opened up again to remove them. Our friend’s hunch proved correct. Without the resistors, the traffic lights passed all their tests with flying colors.

So, was it necessary to do the A-frame work? Yes, it was. These tasks were already on the punch list anyway. As far as the resistors are concerned, it is a bit annoying to discover we didn’t need them. It was our decision to include them, since we didn’t know if our older tow vehicle would recognize the LED signals. The resistors didn’t cost more than a few dollars each. Still, time matters too. Just like home improvement, you may as well figure RV renovation is going to take you three times longer than you thought and possibly double the initial cost.

If you want to see additional pictures of the A-frame work, including before pics with the old converter box, they can be found on the Airstream forum where we're known as Starstream. Make inquiries here in the comments, and we'll let you know what threads to look at.

Aaaaggghhh!!!

The license fixture looks so innocent, but it was missing a second wire.

It was recently fixed by replacing the original socket with a fixture

that has two wires.

When possible, try to remove old parts before ordering new ones.

This blog post was going to include another video showing how we re-assembled our rear signal lights to make the conversion to LED. However, we had to make some adjustments when putting the lights back in our Airstream. It turned out to be a task that required two sets of hands, meaning it wasn’t possible to videotape the remainder of the process. (Might be looking into a Go-Pro camera.) An explanation of the adjustments will appear in this post shortly.

Since our trailer can’t be in the driveway for very long periods of time, we’ve been changing out all the clearance lights where it’s stored. The signal lights were a lot more involved. The push buttons on the sockets were broken and/or corroded and needed to be replaced. So we removed the cover lenses, rubber seals and the metal cans for each fixture, and brought them back to the house. To remove the cans, you will have to cut the wires that are connected to the light sockets. Make sure you’re cutting close to the cans (the more usable wire left on the trailer, the better), keeping each can’s wire group together, and marking where each wire goes in the series. We used a LED replacement kit. This kit made some of the chore of reinstalling everything much easier. (You will want to cover the openings for the fixtures to keep water out of the trailer, in the event the job won't be completed the same day.)

Why not just use LED replacement bulbs in the existing fixtures? We tried them first. Even though we used LED lights designed for automotive use, they were difficult to see in the Airstream light fixtures. (Old sockets didn’t help.) There are also other considerations when converting to LED lights. If you have an older tow vehicle like we do (1999 Ford Expedition), you may need to add a resistor to one of your 2-pole sockets on each side of the trailer. Otherwise, due to the low power usage of LEDs, your signal lights may not blink. As a side note, we need to make a correction to the previous post. When towing a travel trailer, the only thing pulling power from the trailer’s 12V battery is the breakaway switch. In the event of an emergency where trailer and tow vehicle become separated, it applies the trailer’s brakes. All the light signals get their power from the tow vehicle battery.

This is the signal light kit we used. http://led4rv.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=15&products_id=292   The owner of this business is very helpful. He not only assisted us with purchase of correct parts and instructions for installing our lights, he even emailed us a diagram explaining how we needed to wire a new 7-way plug on the Airstream hitch cord.

Here are a few other things to keep in mind when changing the signal lights on a travel trailer.

We can’t stress enough to document everything with pictures. Before cutting wires from old fixtures, make note of the wire colors and what is connected where. As we’ve already discovered, some trailer manufactures used their own wire colors for some electrical functions and may not be universal to all. Don’t rely on your memory to make sure you’re connecting everything properly, especially if you need to complete the job at a later date. Many travel trailers, like ours, do not have a lot of air space between the outside shell and interior walls. For the turn signals, we used wire nuts to connect the old wires with the new, just in case we didn’t wire something correctly. Removing wire nuts is a lot easier than cutting and splicing; only to find out you have wired it wrong and need to change the configuration and cut and splice it again. Purchase the smallest wire nuts you can easily work with. If the wire nuts are too big, you might not be able to get a snug, water-tight fit when placing the cans back into their openings. Using enough wire allows the whole configuration to be tucked around the cans.

Two other items should become a permanent part of your traveling toolbox; a tester for your vehicle’s tow package, and another tester designed for your travel trailer. Be prepared to spend a bit of money for a trailer tester, if you want one that can trouble shoot your electrical problems. The correct trailer tester can also serve a dual purpose. It can be used for emergency hazard lighting for the trailer if you must leave it along the side of the road without the tow vehicle. It’s important that this tool has its own source of power for testing your trailer signal lights. (See correction above. The trailer tester we first purchased supposedly worked with the trailer’s 12V battery. Guess what, it didn’t work the clearance/signal lights and has been returned.) Oh, and one more thing. Make sure you keep the owner’s manual for your tow vehicle (or locate one for your vehicle). Sooner or later, something in the tow package will fail, especially when testing new lights on the trailer. Replacing fuses and relays isn’t difficult as long as you know the correct parts and where they go.

Now, back to our tail lights. We put the resistors on the back of the cans initially, and discovered the hard way there isn’t enough room for them between the cans and the interior wall. Next we tried adding the resistors to the side of the can. This too did not allow enough room to fit everything back on the trailer. It turned out they did fit on the inside of the can alongside the socket and still allowed enough room for the LED light fixture. Obviously, it took a bit of trial an error, not to mention time, to make the adjustments.

We spent 4-5 hrs. re-locating the resistors, reconnecting wires and closing everything up. After all that work, we hooked the Airstream to the SUV for a test. (We were still deciding on a trailer tester.) Everything seemed to be working properly until we turned on the vehicle headlights. Then it all went south. We think our culprit might be the new license plate fixture. The trailer originally had two wires, but Karl believes the replacement came with a single wire bulb socket, therefore the circuit isn’t being completed. (Pictures, people, pictures!) When you have incomplete circuits, missing grounds, or shorts your trailer lights will do all kinds of aggravating things. The one thing they won’t do is work properly. Big sigh… That means the license plate fixture will be removed in a few days to correct it. For our next test, we’ll probably be crossing every possible body part to the point of being contortionists, hoping we’re finally ready to move on to the next project. (Replacing holding tanks. Woohoo!!)

First Things First

As you’ve probably gathered from our previous posts, and any searches you may have done for a vintage RV, they run the gamut in condition. If you decided a project is not for you, it’s certainly possible to buy your dream already restored. Your first order of business is to complete legal transfer of ownership.

In our state, the Airstream we purchased is required to pass a safety inspection. Though it is intact and towable, we wanted to make sure it passes inspection the first time. We also think we might want to do some boondocking while traveling. Use of various energy sources on an RV become a big deal when they’re all you have, especially on older travel trailers. Our first project on The Stellar Land Yacht is changing the running and signal lights from incandescent to LED. While traveling, the Clearance/Marker lights get their power from the the tow vehicle. Any changes you can make to reduce the pull on your battery(ies) is always a good thing.

While we were testing everything, we also thought there might be a problem with the hitch harness wiring. A trailer repair shop determined the female socket on our tow vehicle had corrosion. It has been replaced. Your vehicle’s tow package will likely be part of the inspection (can’t operate the trailer signals or brakes without it), so don’t ignore it while preparing. We are also replacing the male plug on the Airstream. We discovered the color coding for the 7-way wiring on the Airstream didn’t match the labeling on the new plug. Between 1966 & 1981 Airstream had their own standard. #$@%&!! We’ll explain that in a separate post.

The video attached to this post demonstrates how we changed out the running lights without tearing into the interior of the trailer to access the wiring. Because we live in a deed restricted neighborhood, the Airstream can’t be on our property for long periods of time. Changing out the lights didn’t require large power tools so we were able to make this upgrade at the storage space. Unfortunately, an annoying beep can be heard in the background from the trailer next to ours. We offer our apologies up front.

A Few Words Concerning Titles

No, we’re not talking about forms of address for people. The sample provided with this post is the topic being addressed.

When you borrow money to purchase a vehicle, the title is usually held by the lender until the loan is paid off. We have never leased, but it seems reasonable to believe the title is in the possession of the lessor. There may be people out there who, for one reason or another, have never fully owned a vehicle. This is not a judgment of those individuals, but if you’ve never had a title in your possession, you owe it to yourself to know what they are and how your state of residence uses them; before you consider purchasing something used. Regardless who the seller of your vintage RV might be, a good source for information is www.dmv.org. You can find information by state and the required forms to make your purchase legal. (Except the title.)

Why are titles important? Proof of current ownership is probably the most essential. Next, as long as the title has always been properly transferred, it provides a history of ownership. And from a state’s prospective, it’s not only a way to make sure something isn’t stolen, it’s a continuing source of income. Every time a vehicle or RV is sold, states not only charge a fee for title transfer, they will usually expect the buyer to pay sales tax on the purchase price.

This is the info most states expect to see on a clean/clear title. (For a vehicle that has never been classified as salvage – something which has been damaged and cost for repair is more than current value.) Motorhome titles should have odometer readings. Every time the vehicle changes hands the odometer should be read and the correct mileage noted. The title should also list color, gross vehicle weight, make/model/year, and most importantly – the VIN. (Vehicle Identification Number) This number is provided by and secured to a vehicle by its manufacturer. It is not recommended to purchase from anyone trying to sell something where the VIN is missing or doesn’t match what’s recorded on the title.

Depending on the history of a vintage RV, it’s entirely possible the title has been lost or not properly transferred somewhere along the way. What your state requires to prove legal ownership could, and really should, influence what you decide to look at and ultimately buy. You don’t want to find out, after someone else has your money, the lack of certain documentation has hijacked your dreams. It can be costly and time consuming to acquire a new title for something that doesn’t have a clear history of ownership. For our purchase and restoration project, we preferred to have a clear title up front. We wanted to put our resources into the restoration, not the hassle of trying to obtain a title.

Some states require a safety inspection of an RV to ensure road worthiness before you can transfer or obtain a new title. (All signals, brakes etc. must be working properly. Proof of insurance may also be needed. Checklists of such requirements can usually be found online at a state’s DOT/DMV site.) Some states also require an emissions test for motorized vehicles. Please keep the emissions test in mind if your state requires it, and the state you are purchasing the RV from does not. It’s possible an out-of-state vehicle might not pass the test the first time. Check your state’s laws on how long you have to transfer a title over, especially if the “new to you” RV requires a great deal of work before an inspection can take place. Your state may charge penalties if the title isn’t transferred in the given time frame. If you can’t find necessary info online, call the government office where you will make the title transfer.

The subject of titles isn’t exactly a fun one. Unfortunately, it can’t be avoided, even if you think your restored RV will become a funky office space or groovy backyard hangout. Someday you might decide to sell your masterpiece and buyers may want to convert your RV dream back into something they can travel with. Please don’t be “that guy” who passes on a problem (lack of title) which can be preventable. Also, be aware of “lemon laws” and what rights you have as a buyer or seller. In our Airstream search, we came across many listings where a title wasn’t available. On listings that didn’t mention a title but were on the radar as possibilities, our first question was always “Does it have a title?” Those listings that didn’t were thanked and taken off the list.

Our Airstream came from a situation you may not encounter. When we first saw our dream trailer, a young couple was living in it while saving money for their first home. The trailer was loaned to them by a long-time family friend who unfortunately is ill. The owner decided, after many years of possession, it was time to let the Airstream go to another home. The young couple was helping them sell it. As sometimes happens when life gets in the way, the title had been misplaced. The seller was aware of the situation and was in the process of replacing the title before we got involved.

Before we decided to buy the trailer, we made it clear the purchase price would be made in installments; one part to secure the Airstream as ours, the remainder to be paid once the title and accompanying transfer paperwork were in our possession. While finalizing the sale someone else tried to buy the Airstream by paying full price plus a bit extra all at once. We don’t know all the details but got the impression this buyer thought a title could be obtained by other means, therefore bypassing the wait for the replacement title. Apparently, that buyer was wrong and backed out of the deal a couple of hours after making it. While the incident did cause a bit of disappointment, thinking the trailer was sold out from under us, it was even more stressful for the young couple trying to help the seller. They already had enough going on that they didn’t need someone making offers which couldn’t be honored. Our willingness to wait for the title helped us prevail in the end. When the trailer came into our possession, we began troubleshooting for the safety inspection while waiting for the title/transfer documents.

A Tale of Two Trailers

In the last post, there was a brief mention of price concerning vintage travel trailers. For those just entering this highly specialized market, it can be hard to recognize fair prices. As far as we are aware, there isn’t a definitive guide specifically for vintage units.

NADA can be a good place to start for baselines. You can also check all the various web sites where you might find RVs for sale, including those of dealerships. Even in the search for vintage units, you don’t want to rule out the dealerships. You never know where you might find that nifty gem that speaks to you. (Or how far away it might be, for that matter.) What is the point of all this searching? To help determine a reasonable price for your future vintage trailer. Granted, the definition of reasonable can be a highly personal thing. The monetary value of an item gets down to how much someone is willing to pay for it. There are some individuals who think nothing of paying an outrageous amount of money for something if they feel it’s highly prized by society at large. It may not matter to them that the item in question saw its glory days many years ago. Others pinch their pennies so hard they scream. They seem to have a knack for unearthing things at bargain basement prices. And let’s not forget the perceptions of sellers. There will be many occasions when buyers and sellers will be miles apart concerning the perceived value of an item.

So, where do you really start? You have to establish your budget up front well before beginning your search. Especially for vintage trailers, you not only need to establish what you’re willing to pay actually buying it, but how much to spend after, making it the RV of your dreams. Unless you’re in the business of restoring and immediately selling vintage trailers, rid yourself of the notion you’re making an investment. If you own something for many years after restoration, depreciation will probably rear its ugly head. Keeping in mind this is something you want for your own pleasure may help in minimizing the likelihood of overpaying for something.

Now, on to the Tale of Two Trailers… (It’s a mini epic about gaining perspective.)

Once upon a time, there was a middle aged couple who decided they wanted an RV. They looked at just about every unit they could find on the internet. Any dealership or private seller within half a day’s driving distance was visited. They looked at RVs of many classes and sizes, even 5^th wheels. (Mostly out of curiosity on the last one, since these RV dreamers didn’t own the right kind of tow vehicle.)

When it was finally decided only an Airstream would do, the search primarily narrowed to the internet. With the internet the world is our oyster, isn’t it? No, not really. It just created many interesting conversations about the probability of looking at a possible prospect three states away. But before a consensus was reached the prospect sold. Poop! Well, it may have been too small anyway.

Then, one day… “Wait a minute… here’s one only four hours away. Interesting, it’s at a dealership.” One said to the other as they handed the laptop to their loving and patient spouse. “Hmm… it might be promising. It’s possible to look at it and be back home in the same day.” The other replied. Still, it wasn’t the only Airstream for sale. Since the couple wanted to make sure they found their best choice, the site was saved for later.

They kept coming back to the listing. (Trailer A) The photos were squinted at many times. The meaning of “As is” was discussed more than once. Finally, the dealership was contacted. It sounded like it was in reasonable condition for something that was more than 30 years old. A refundable deposit to hold it could be made until it was convenient for the couple to look at it. A gut feeling (perhaps a wee bit of queasiness?) made itself felt. After this conversation they went back to the internet and found another Airstream that had just been listed by a private seller in the same metro area as Trailer A. It was also a Sovereign, but one year later. And $900 less. (Another gut feeling!) A phone call revealed someone was already coming to look at it that day. The next day the wife received a text that Trailer B was still available.

What to do? The couple wasn’t sure they wanted to work with a private seller. However, they weren’t getting a definitive answer that Trailer A was road worthy enough to be towed more than 200 miles. One night before going to bed, the couple decided to go look at Trailer A the next day. No money was leaving their hands until they knew what they were really receiving for it.

Having previous experience with Magic Internet Cameras, they weren’t too surprised to discover Trailer A was in terrible shape. They were prepared to do a bit of work since the project force was strong with them. Still, they wanted to finish and enjoy their RV before they died. Ripping something down to the chassis didn’t interest them. Needless to say, Trailer A also wasn’t road worthy. The tires were too old, the axles looked wobbly, and the electrical hitch wiring/tow connector was gone. The couple didn’t want to spend extra to put the poor thing on a flatbed trailer. It also didn’t help the dealership couldn’t come down much on asking price. (See above, before our epic began. Bear in mind perception can be influenced by many factors. Trailer A was a trade-in.)

The wife still had the phone number for Trailer B, which was about half an hour away. Thank goodness for motivated sellers. They were willing to make the time to show it on short notice. While it was a 1979 time capsule getting a bit rough around the edges, Trailer B was intact and still had many of its desirable original equipment, such as the rock guards covering the front windows and the Zip Dee Awning. (If an Airstream was once equipped with these, it can be difficult and/or expensive to replace them.)  All the hitch equipment was intact, and everything was in decent enough shape that Trailer B could be towed to its new home.

Ultimately, the couple decided to purchase Trailer B. One would assume this is the happy ending. Courtesy of an evil troll who attempted to purchase the trailer while both parties were trying to finalize the transaction, things became a bit uncertain for a little while. It turned out the troll lacked understanding of a certain magic document needed to make the trailer sale legal. (No, it’s not a bill of sale.) The troll had to retreat back under their bridge. The sellers, a young couple in the process of buying their first castle, were anxious to earn some extra money. A week later, they made the 7 hr. drive (round trip) to deliver the trailer. So one epic finally ended favorably, and another is beginning.

The moral of the story? While you might not have the opportunity to do same day comparison shopping, make sure you have more than one possibility lined up. Try to keep them all within your desired price range. Having more than one potential trailer to look at takes the pressure off buying something you know isn’t right for you. By some fortunate twist of fate we made the choice to look at Trailer A first. It certainly made a difference in determining if the price of Trailer B was fair.