Low Tech Blinds - Introduction

Sometimes the best solution to a problem is something simple; uncomplicated in design and execution.

When we purchased our trailer it had some of the original curtains, which we’re keeping, but the rest of the windows were covered with roller blinds that didn’t want to stay where they belonged. Deciding how to recover those windows was a trial and error process. Initially we thought cellular blinds were a good replacement, but after I ordered them, we couldn’t agree on the best way to mount above or secure below the windows. They were also bulkier than I cared for. They ended up being returned, and since there wasn’t anything else ready-made we felt was suitable, I cast my eye to a bolt of chenille fabric sitting in my studio.

I have made blinds for our house; the Roman type with all the cords for 6 foot square windows. Ei-yi-yi! There was no way I wanted to make something so complicated for our Airstream, even for smaller windows, so pull cords were out. The fabric I decided to use was originally for a banquette at the front of the trailer, but Karl wanted recliners instead. Since it’s upholstery fabric, I initially resisted making window coverings, but really didn’t have another purpose in mind for it. Now I’m glad I used it. We had seven windows to recover in varying sizes. I had 9 yards of 60” wide fabric. The blinds are all made now, and I have fabric leftover. With the cotton duck lining on the back, the blinds not only look polished but are more energy efficient.

Thinking of making your own custom blinds? There is not going to be a one size fits all pattern, though the basic concept is adaptable. Those who have loved and owned Airstreams know that the quantity, size, and shapes of windows will vary due to the age and model of trailer. Even within a single trailer, the windows will vary in size. Here’s a web link that provides a brief overview of Airstream windows. http://vintageairstream.com/frequently-asked-questions-faqs/windows-vents-doors/

Because of this variance, I can’t provide specific sizes for patterns or recommend the required yardage of fabric in this post. I ask anyone who needs assistance to please use the comments section of this blog, or find the Air Forums thread with the same title. I will do my best to walk you through the process. This is going to be a 3-part series. Right now we’re dealing with making patterns and getting supplies. The second post will show the construction steps. The third post will cover making an optional “cornice”.

This is one of the completed blinds with the chenille fabric rolled to the inside.

This photo doesn’t show the locking latches at the bottom of the screen frame,

but the levers are noticeable just below the upper corner.

There is also a Vista View window below.

This blind and the one next to it cover the large window and Vista View

with about 2” outside all the way around the window frames.

You need to begin with measurements. Here are the details to look for when deciding where to measure. Do you want your blinds to go beyond the frames which contain the window screens? Is any hardware protruding thru the frames, such as levers to open/close and latches to secure the windows? If so, you have two choices. Either make the blinds small enough to fit inside the hardware, or find a way to close the sides of the blinds. The curved flap on the side of our blinds was actually designed to accommodate the hardware on our windows, but had the side benefit of hugging the wall. You just want to make sure you’re measuring a bit beyond these items so the front of the blinds covers them with some room to spare. By creating something which follows the contour of the wall, privacy is no longer an issue, either. I ended up adding side flaps to the blind for our large picture window which doesn’t open. Without the flaps, there was still a gap between the blind and the curved walls. I found 3 – 3.5” inches at the widest point of the flaps was enough to close up the sides of all the blinds.

Side view of one of the finished blinds.

The center of the curve, the widest point of the flap, is 3” wide.

From that point the flaps curves back gradually to the top and bottom corners.

Once you have your measurements, making patterns and determining fabric yardage are the next steps. I have a 4 ft. wide roll of pattern-making paper which was originally 400 yds. long, an item which has actually been in my studio for a couple of years. I find it handy because it has a 1” grid pattern of letters and numbers that I can just count out. I also have plenty of uses for big pieces of paper. For those not wanting to purchase a large roll, there are many options for finding smaller quantities of assorted pattern making materials. Just make sure you’re getting a width that will allow you to cut out your largest pattern in one piece. In the event you have a few windows with the same measurements, you only need to make one pattern for all of them. Another way to save paper is to make half a pattern designed for the folded fabric that comes on some bolts. However, making a full pattern allows you to test it on the window before cutting any fabric.

It’s difficult to tell from the camera angle, but the top and bottom edges

of this pattern piece are the same width.

You’ll notice it was folded twice.

After the front measurements were counted out, all 4 corners were marked with an X.

Three additional inches were added to each side before cutting the pattern out.

The curves were made by folding the pattern twice, marking the curve in one corner

and cutting it. (Think of it as similar to making paper snowflakes.)

Just make sure you keep track of the top/bottom of your pattern once folded

 so you cut the curve out of the sides.

If you own one, a dressmaker’s (French) curve can help you mark your cutting line

from the center of the flap to the corner.

This image is an update as of 04/08/2016.
I had made some paper patterns for someone, but they didn't arrive
when the carrier said they were supposed to.
I made full-size digital versions to email since they had access to a plotter.
(The original patterns arrived today.)
It occurred to me that I could scale one of the patterns down and use it as an image here.
This is what a pattern looks like lying flat. 
The vertical lines show where the flaps would be folded back and top-stitched.

Ready for fabric? For those who have a finished interior or know what their plans are, they may already have a fabric in mind. Backing the blinds with another fabric is a matter of personal choice, but if you decide to do it, I strongly recommend “gluing” the 2 pieces together with fusible web before adding trim and fasteners. It will keep the blinds smooth and much tidier in appearance both closed and rolled open. Don’t know what you want? The era of your trailer can be a starting point. Retro is showing up everywhere, including the patterns on fabric. Just make sure you pay close attention to the design’s direction. Random patterns can give some leeway when you’re cutting more than one item from your yardage, otherwise make sure patterns with obvious directions are all going the same way. The same is also true for fabrics with a nap, like velvet, ultra suede or chenille. Keep the nap going in the same direction on all the blinds, or they could look like they’re different colors.

In the US, fabrics come in widths from about 44” up to 60”. (Some are wider, usually for making items like blankets.) Narrower widths might be less expensive per yard, but more yards may be needed. Wider widths may cost more, but you may need fewer yards. So don’t use fabric width as a guide for saving money. Type of fabric has more influence over cost. Fade-resistant, easy-to-clean outdoor fabrics could be a good choice for this application. But even within that category, you can find some significant differences in price per yard. Stores like Joann will have fabrics with their name printed on the selvage, a “store brand” if you will. Sunbrella is a name brand fabric. It usually costs more.

Teal/dark blue chenille, dark blue cotton duck, double fold ½” bias tape and snap kit.

The snap kit contains 6 sets of snaps.

The fusible web isn’t pictured here, but you need plenty of it to get full coverage.

It comes in a single width on the bolt, so a larger blind will need a couple of pieces.

Unless you’re getting the heavy-duty web, try not to buy the paper-backed stuff.

You will find it frustrating to peel away from a large piece of web.

There isn’t a right or wrong when choosing fabric, but there are some types which might not be the best choice. I would definitely recommend staying away from anything that unravels very easily, or has no tolerance for an iron if you are using fusible web. Clear care instructions and fiber content should be on the label at the end of a bolt, otherwise, ask a store employee for assistance. Some home décor fabrics come on a roll instead. There should be tags hanging from them that show fabric content and price per yard. Sometimes this information will be in a plastic pocket which also includes some swatches. No swatches? No problem. Usually, a store employee is willing to cut off a small corner when asked nicely. Online retailers will often offer swatches as well. Some provide them as a courtesy, others sell them. It’s really a good idea to get some swatches before making a decision, especially if ordering fabric. Don’t trust your computer monitor to be true to color.

When you’re ready, we’ll move on to the construction phase.

Kristal