Low Tech Blinds - Introduction

Sometimes the best solution to a problem is something simple; uncomplicated in design and execution.

When we purchased our trailer it had some of the original curtains, which we’re keeping, but the rest of the windows were covered with roller blinds that didn’t want to stay where they belonged. Deciding how to recover those windows was a trial and error process. Initially we thought cellular blinds were a good replacement, but after I ordered them, we couldn’t agree on the best way to mount above or secure below the windows. They were also bulkier than I cared for. They ended up being returned, and since there wasn’t anything else ready-made we felt was suitable, I cast my eye to a bolt of chenille fabric sitting in my studio.

I have made blinds for our house; the Roman type with all the cords for 6 foot square windows. Ei-yi-yi! There was no way I wanted to make something so complicated for our Airstream, even for smaller windows, so pull cords were out. The fabric I decided to use was originally for a banquette at the front of the trailer, but Karl wanted recliners instead. Since it’s upholstery fabric, I initially resisted making window coverings, but really didn’t have another purpose in mind for it. Now I’m glad I used it. We had seven windows to recover in varying sizes. I had 9 yards of 60” wide fabric. The blinds are all made now, and I have fabric leftover. With the cotton duck lining on the back, the blinds not only look polished but are more energy efficient.

Thinking of making your own custom blinds? There is not going to be a one size fits all pattern, though the basic concept is adaptable. Those who have loved and owned Airstreams know that the quantity, size, and shapes of windows will vary due to the age and model of trailer. Even within a single trailer, the windows will vary in size. Here’s a web link that provides a brief overview of Airstream windows. http://vintageairstream.com/frequently-asked-questions-faqs/windows-vents-doors/

Because of this variance, I can’t provide specific sizes for patterns or recommend the required yardage of fabric in this post. I ask anyone who needs assistance to please use the comments section of this blog, or find the Air Forums thread with the same title. I will do my best to walk you through the process. This is going to be a 3-part series. Right now we’re dealing with making patterns and getting supplies. The second post will show the construction steps. The third post will cover making an optional “cornice”.

This is one of the completed blinds with the chenille fabric rolled to the inside.

This photo doesn’t show the locking latches at the bottom of the screen frame,

but the levers are noticeable just below the upper corner.

There is also a Vista View window below.

This blind and the one next to it cover the large window and Vista View

with about 2” outside all the way around the window frames.

You need to begin with measurements. Here are the details to look for when deciding where to measure. Do you want your blinds to go beyond the frames which contain the window screens? Is any hardware protruding thru the frames, such as levers to open/close and latches to secure the windows? If so, you have two choices. Either make the blinds small enough to fit inside the hardware, or find a way to close the sides of the blinds. The curved flap on the side of our blinds was actually designed to accommodate the hardware on our windows, but had the side benefit of hugging the wall. You just want to make sure you’re measuring a bit beyond these items so the front of the blinds covers them with some room to spare. By creating something which follows the contour of the wall, privacy is no longer an issue, either. I ended up adding side flaps to the blind for our large picture window which doesn’t open. Without the flaps, there was still a gap between the blind and the curved walls. I found 3 – 3.5” inches at the widest point of the flaps was enough to close up the sides of all the blinds.

Side view of one of the finished blinds.

The center of the curve, the widest point of the flap, is 3” wide.

From that point the flaps curves back gradually to the top and bottom corners.

Once you have your measurements, making patterns and determining fabric yardage are the next steps. I have a 4 ft. wide roll of pattern-making paper which was originally 400 yds. long, an item which has actually been in my studio for a couple of years. I find it handy because it has a 1” grid pattern of letters and numbers that I can just count out. I also have plenty of uses for big pieces of paper. For those not wanting to purchase a large roll, there are many options for finding smaller quantities of assorted pattern making materials. Just make sure you’re getting a width that will allow you to cut out your largest pattern in one piece. In the event you have a few windows with the same measurements, you only need to make one pattern for all of them. Another way to save paper is to make half a pattern designed for the folded fabric that comes on some bolts. However, making a full pattern allows you to test it on the window before cutting any fabric.

It’s difficult to tell from the camera angle, but the top and bottom edges

of this pattern piece are the same width.

You’ll notice it was folded twice.

After the front measurements were counted out, all 4 corners were marked with an X.

Three additional inches were added to each side before cutting the pattern out.

The curves were made by folding the pattern twice, marking the curve in one corner

and cutting it. (Think of it as similar to making paper snowflakes.)

Just make sure you keep track of the top/bottom of your pattern once folded

 so you cut the curve out of the sides.

If you own one, a dressmaker’s (French) curve can help you mark your cutting line

from the center of the flap to the corner.

This image is an update as of 04/08/2016.
I had made some paper patterns for someone, but they didn't arrive
when the carrier said they were supposed to.
I made full-size digital versions to email since they had access to a plotter.
(The original patterns arrived today.)
It occurred to me that I could scale one of the patterns down and use it as an image here.
This is what a pattern looks like lying flat. 
The vertical lines show where the flaps would be folded back and top-stitched.

Ready for fabric? For those who have a finished interior or know what their plans are, they may already have a fabric in mind. Backing the blinds with another fabric is a matter of personal choice, but if you decide to do it, I strongly recommend “gluing” the 2 pieces together with fusible web before adding trim and fasteners. It will keep the blinds smooth and much tidier in appearance both closed and rolled open. Don’t know what you want? The era of your trailer can be a starting point. Retro is showing up everywhere, including the patterns on fabric. Just make sure you pay close attention to the design’s direction. Random patterns can give some leeway when you’re cutting more than one item from your yardage, otherwise make sure patterns with obvious directions are all going the same way. The same is also true for fabrics with a nap, like velvet, ultra suede or chenille. Keep the nap going in the same direction on all the blinds, or they could look like they’re different colors.

In the US, fabrics come in widths from about 44” up to 60”. (Some are wider, usually for making items like blankets.) Narrower widths might be less expensive per yard, but more yards may be needed. Wider widths may cost more, but you may need fewer yards. So don’t use fabric width as a guide for saving money. Type of fabric has more influence over cost. Fade-resistant, easy-to-clean outdoor fabrics could be a good choice for this application. But even within that category, you can find some significant differences in price per yard. Stores like Joann will have fabrics with their name printed on the selvage, a “store brand” if you will. Sunbrella is a name brand fabric. It usually costs more.

Teal/dark blue chenille, dark blue cotton duck, double fold ½” bias tape and snap kit.

The snap kit contains 6 sets of snaps.

The fusible web isn’t pictured here, but you need plenty of it to get full coverage.

It comes in a single width on the bolt, so a larger blind will need a couple of pieces.

Unless you’re getting the heavy-duty web, try not to buy the paper-backed stuff.

You will find it frustrating to peel away from a large piece of web.

There isn’t a right or wrong when choosing fabric, but there are some types which might not be the best choice. I would definitely recommend staying away from anything that unravels very easily, or has no tolerance for an iron if you are using fusible web. Clear care instructions and fiber content should be on the label at the end of a bolt, otherwise, ask a store employee for assistance. Some home décor fabrics come on a roll instead. There should be tags hanging from them that show fabric content and price per yard. Sometimes this information will be in a plastic pocket which also includes some swatches. No swatches? No problem. Usually, a store employee is willing to cut off a small corner when asked nicely. Online retailers will often offer swatches as well. Some provide them as a courtesy, others sell them. It’s really a good idea to get some swatches before making a decision, especially if ordering fabric. Don’t trust your computer monitor to be true to color.

When you’re ready, we’ll move on to the construction phase.

Kristal

The Other Set of Wheels

Unless you plan to keep you vintage RV stationary, there is another part of the equation that must be considered before you start your grand adventures. That would be the motorized part of it.

In the vintage world there are both travel trailers and motor homes. Believe it or not, they have been around for about the same amount of time. (No, we’re not counting the Conestoga wagons taken West by the pioneers. Those were Uhauls.) By and large travel trailers are probably the more popular of the two, for a variety of reasons we won’t delve into here.

This post is about tow vehicles. When we’re dreaming it can be easy to forget about practicalities. But having a tow vehicle and trailer who are well matched is one of those equations which influence safety (yours and fellow motorists) while on the road. If you have a car, small SUV or pick-up, you might not be towing a 30ft., or larger, trailer. You would be better off with a small pop-up, teardrop or baby canned ham. A well equipped full-size SUV or 1/2-ton pick-up (Ford F150, Chevy 1500, Dodge 1500) might allow you to move up into the 20 – 30ft. size. Anything larger than that will require the heavy-duty pickups or even a small semi-truck. There is also the option of matching your tow vehicle to the same era as your trailer, but the rules governing safe towing still apply.

Getting the perfect match means doing your homework, especially if you’ve never towed anything. And you need to complete this step before you start shopping. Knowing how to decipher manufacturer labels is the name of the game. There are various sites on the internet where you can begin your towing education, such as the blog “The Long, Long Honeymoon”. As would be expected, most of the RV forums have plenty of information too. Besides those places, we recommend looking for opportunities to get real, hands-on experience. Some RV support groups, such as Good Sam and Escapees, offer education opportunities (RVing 101 or RV boot-camp) that cover towing, safety while traveling, and how to operate all the systems normally found in an RV. Even some semi-truck driving schools, trade schools and community colleges offer courses in RV towing and/or Class A RV’s.

Once you get beyond the initial education, you have some serious decisions to make. Don’t think you’re in the market for a tow a vehicle? Check with your mechanic and get their opinion on your present vehicle’s potential to tow a travel trailer. Any vehicle being used to pull a trailer should have a tow package. If you aren’t sure your vehicle has one, your mechanic is the best person to give the answer you need. On some vehicles, the tow package is not standard equipment. Even the large vehicles don’t always come with it, because optional items always add to the cost when you’re buying new. A good, well-rounded mechanic should also be able to help you translate the door labels on your vehicle and hitch. This is where manufacturers usually put a vehicle’s specs. Once you know the capacity of your vehicle, and your vehicle is properly equipped, you can start shopping for a travel trailer.

The other half of the equation is found on the metal labels trailer manufacturers put on their products. Sometimes that information may have disappeared during a trailer’s existence. It’s also possible the unit might actually be homemade. The only way to get a weight in those instances is to find the info on the title or take the RV to a weigh station. Trailers which still have their label will have 2 numbers; one when it’s empty and the maximum allowable weight when fully loaded. Knowing the total weight of your loaded trailer is a big part of towing safety. The larger number on the RV tag shouldn’t exceed your tow vehicle’s capacity. In fact, it’s better to keep the total weight under. (Some RV owners feel up to 20% less is a good range.)Because it’s not just about whether the vehicle can pull, but can stop what is behind it.

Most of the time, trailer length and weight will go hand and hand. However, there are occasional surprises. Vintage trailers made with aircraft-style construction methods were often the ultra-lights of their day. A longer trailer may not weigh as much as you think. Still, never assume anything. (Note the first three letters of the half-bold word.) You also need to be honest with yourself about your comfort level. The difficulties of towing (and backing up) increase with the length of your RV. Know your own limitations. Some people are just not comfortable towing something that is longer than the vehicle being driven.

In case you’re wondering why this topic now, our tow vehicle situation has been a bit fluid lately. When we were trailer shopping the vehicle we already owned went with us. (Literally and figuratively.) As you will note in the above picture, it’s an older model; a 1999 Ford Expedition, to be exact. There can be a number of reasons to hold onto an older vehicle. The biggest one usually has to do with the budget. Ours is paid for, has less than 110K miles, and for the most part has been reliable. It also doesn’t cost so much to insure it, a big deal when living in a large urban area.

We will admit to taking a look at other options whenever an issue has cropped up. But shopping for a replacement never gets very far because we just don’t care for the prices of new vehicles in the size we need. Vehicles 5 years old or less haven’t pleased us much either. It’s not necessarily because they’re in terrible condition (though we’ve encountered a couple of those), but many of them have higher mileage than Old Silver and dealers still want more for them than what our first house cost. It just doesn’t make good financial sense for us to spend huge sums of money on something that doesn’t hold value. When we’ve encountered items needing replacement or repair, we had a serious discussion with our mechanic about options. Modifications that would make the Expedition better suited for the trailer we’re pulling were part of the conversion. We have an amazing mechanic who knows our vehicle very well. After comparing his estimates to the cost of buying something else, it was very easy to decide we didn’t need a different vehicle. Why pay lots of money for something else only to find it cuts into our budget too much, and we couldn’t travel the way we want to?

Fortunately, the changes we needed to make could be spread out, though we do have a deadline. So after the trailer came back home, the truck went in for the last items, a transmission cooler and rear air-bag conversion kit. Though air- bag suspension is considered an upgrade by auto manufacturers, the cost of replacing it with a more traditional suspension system was way more cost-effective. Our air bags were also wearing out and running down vehicle batteries well before their time. The last time it happened to us, we were running errands close to home. Fortunately, the battery was less than a year old and under warranty. The new, heavy-duty coil suspension doesn’t need the battery to do its job properly, making it one less thing to worry about on our next adventure.

For those who have determined you need to purchase a tow vehicle, the better educated you are about your specific needs the better off you are. Don’t rely on a dealership to educate you. If you think leasing might be a better option, you need to pay close attention to the fine print. How many miles is the vehicle allowed to travel during a year? Will you be able to visit all of the places on your wish list? Can you even lease a vehicle with a tow package? If so, what limitations is the dealership placing on your use of their property as a tow vehicle?

We realize topics like this kind of suck the fun out of dreams, which are often fueled by the images others post of their darling RVs, and all the interesting places they travel to. But the nuts and bolts have to be addressed first, before you even consider hitting the road. If you’ve ever encountered an accident involving an RV, you probably noticed it looked really serious. It’s very rare someone doesn’t get hurt, and all the vehicles involved, including the RV, are often a total loss. If you’re going to invest a considerable amount of time and money into any RV, you owe it to yourself to make sure you and your family can enjoy it safely.

You can start your education right now by honestly evaluating your driving habits. Find yourself driving offensively? Start checking yourself now. Offensive driving, speeding and RVs just don’t mix. Put down the cell phone, or better yet turn it off and put it out of reach when you’re driving. Distracted driving is already a big issue with many accidents caused by drivers, whose attention just isn’t where it should be. And they’re not towing anything! Defensive driving and knowing where others are at all times is absolutely essential. By necessity, RVs need to travel a bit slower, take a longer time to make lane changes and usually need to swing wider when making turns.

When you’re ready to embark on your adventures, we look forward to encountering you. The RV community really is a community whose members are usually far more friendly than society in general. Many are often ready to lend a helping hand when needed. You won’t regret joining our ranks.

Bon Voyage.

Putting Your Vintage Treasure Back on the Road

Our next large project was replacing the dual axles on our trailer. Just like holding tanks, it’s not the sexiest of items one must tackle to have a fully functioning vintage RV. It shouldn’t be ignored, either. Have your heart set on an Airstream in particular? Depending on the age and maintenance history of your model, just plan on replacing the axles at some point during your ownership. Airstream started using torsion axles during the 1960s. Most torsion axles have a life-span of 25 years (according to the experts). Regardless of axle type and depending on condition, many vintage trailers’ axles may need replaced. We strongly recommend getting an expert opinion regarding the axles, especially if your trailer is going to be used for travel. Corroded axles and worn suspensions just aren’t safe. Eventually failure of these parts can occur. They can do significant damage to numerous things too; such as premature tire wear, uneven load balance and increased likelihood of nasty accidents.

When it comes to the axles and suspensions for Airstreams, you deal with replacement in a couple of ways. Plenty of information can be found on sites like Airforum concerning axles. Start there before making any decisions.  You will find some DIYers who did the axel prep and installed themselves; other DIYers who ordered complete axles from someone who specializes in Airstream parts, and installed them themselves; a few who ordered the parts and paid someone else for installation,  and others who had the repair shop handle everything. What you decide to do should be based on what best suites your circumstances. When it comes to cost, the adage “You get what you pay for” definitely applies. There are only a couple of suppliers who deal with direct Henschen replacement axles (that we could find), and yes, it does affect cost. But here’s the advantage these specialists have. They can use the Airstream VIN/Serial number to ensure the new axles match your trailer’s specifications. Torsion axles made for Airstream from the 1960s on should have a metal label from the manufacturer. The specialists will want that information also, because the label not only has axle specs but date of manufacture as well. (There is always the possibility a PO has replaced original axles with something else and may have made significant modifications to the trailer to do so.)

We chose a parts specialist and ordered our axles as a complete set, which means they came with new brakes. An added bonus of ordering new axles is newer technology, such as a balancing kit, self adjusting brakes and an easier method of lubing the hubs. If axles are replaced, the shocks should be too. The types of shocks used on Airstreams are quite a bit different than shocks found on other trailers. Again, a qualified supplier is best in determining the correct shocks. Make sure your new axles include the connections for installing the shocks. 

Torsion axles can be notoriously tricky when trying to determine if they’re past their prime. They have rubber rods on the inside that make these axles more than just holders for your tires, but also part of the suspension system. From what we could find, you have a few options to help guide you in determining condition. Lots of rust on the axles and all connecting parts are one indicator. Other signs that point to replacement: how straight the axles are hub to hub (they should have a slight bow up), how far the wheels come up in the fender well (the fender covers the top of tire just a bit), and do any of your tires look like they’re bending inward? (This is much easier to see on dual axles). Check all the tires for wear. Are any uneven? Either tires haven’t been properly maintained with rotation etc., or the axles are bad. We found most of this information in online articles. It’s a good idea to look these up. Make sure they have accompanying photos to aid your diagnostics. Beyond these methods, the only other way to determine if the rods are bad is to cut an axle open. Once you do that the axle is no longer usable.

(If you are in the market for a vintage trailer, make sure you are armed with information concerning good or bad condition of all the major functional parts. Price all the things you’re most likely to replace. We found from the forum you can enlist the help of very knowledgeable people that may live in your area who are willing to go with you to look at a dream traveling candidate)

Changing the axles is a major job we decided to outsource. We don’t have a shop of our own; our driveway is a bit too steep; and for liability reasons it just wasn’t a good idea to use our storage space. This winter, we have also had a lot of wind in our area. If you decide to do the work yourself and don’t have an indoor space to complete the task, you will need to keep a close eye on the weather. In order to change the axles, your trailer has to be lifted up a bit. Also consider that proper disposal of the old axles is your responsibility.

Our new axles were shipped to an RV repair shop located on the south side of Houston. The owner has been acquainted with our supplier since 1969, and he recommended them. The trailer went to the shop a month ago and came home last week.

Preparing the axles to our trailer’s specifications took our supplier about 2 weeks, with delivery occurring a week later. That seems to be standard, but the time of year you order can make a difference. We ordered our axles at the end of December. The manufacturer had been closed for 3 weeks during the holidays. Fortunately for us, our order was placed shortly before they returned to work, so we didn’t experience a significant delay. Meaning we were able to keep the tentative appt. arranged with the repair shop.

Just a reminder: For any project where you want the help of professionals, make sure you plan far enough ahead not only to get your parts in a timely manner, but to assure the repair shop can schedule the work in the time-frame you need. We got serious about the purchase of our axles in Oct. 2015. By the beginning of Nov. we had decided on the parts provider, determined when those parts fit in our budget, and made arrangements with the repair shop (the parts were being sent directly to them after all). RV repair shops, whether attached to dealers or stand alone, are in high demand. There aren’t as many of them as there are places to fix autos. At most places you just can’t show up for service, unless it is some sort of emergency. But even in an emergency, repairs can take some time depending on your location and what the issue is. Your choices narrow considerably when you want work done on a vintage trailer (think trailer restoration shops, which our shop does as well.) We were thankful to receive a recommendation, saving us a considerable amount of research time (though even on recommendations it is a good idea to check the shop’s history). Still, the repair shop which best suited our needs is a fair distance from us. We live just North of Houston, while they are on the south side. Since this distance includes some big city driving, we had to plan accordingly with respect to rush hour(s). That is not a time to be towing something if brakes are iffy.

Bob Jones RV repair shop did the work we needed, and our experience was very positive. We highly recommend their shop for any type of needed RV services; from repairs, to ordering parts and appliances. (Bob Jones RV, if you visit us here; feel free to toot your horn in the comments. In fact, if you would like to do a guest post, even a short one, consider this your invitation.) The other items on our wish list, such as our signal light bugaboo, have been dealt with. We no longer have to make ourselves crazy trying to sort them out. Along with the new axles and brakes, fully functioning safety lights will allow us to hit the road with confidence. And once we get the gray and black tanks back into the trailer, we can start focusing on the fun interior stuff.

A Progress Report

Not sure why, but silver clock faces (with no gold), are not widely available.

Yeah, yeah, we know. Not the sexiest title for a blog post, but we’re covering more than one project and getting caught up with the updates.

There are some good reasons to spring for one of these.

The unit operates as a ceiling fan when closed; has 10 speeds, a thermostat

and a remote control.

Last spring (2015), two new MaxxFan Deluxe ventilation fans replaced the original front and back ceiling vents. The center vent, positioned over the kitchen area, was replaced with a less expensive model of another brand. Unfortunately, it developed a crack while we were towing the Airstream. It has been repaired to keep out water, but we decided it will be replaced with something else. We did discuss the possibility of putting a sky light there. However, since we dropped our center ceiling by 2 inches, Karl is considering some ducting for the air conditioner. Instead of routing the duct around a sky light, we think it makes more sense to install a LED light fixture. Most LED fixtures have a thinner profile than incandescent lights, so it should be possible to route an insulated duct over it.

A section of our drop ceiling and an inside view of a MaxxFan.

There is a bit of finishing work still needed, but it made a big difference

in feeling like we are actually progressing to close up the wires and insulation.

Because the ceiling panels extend a bit to conceal what's above them,

it was easier to install the LED lights on the frame before they were put up.

The drop ceiling was installed in July. LED strip lighting was mounted on the outside of the frame. There are two sets of lights, one for the front half of the trailer and one for the back. Both sets are operated by remote controls that not only turn off/on, they also allow the lights to be dimmed. These LED strips are replacing most of the original lighting our Airstream had. As you can see from the included photos, these lights are installed all the way around the drop ceiling frame. When operating at 100% brightness they do a very good job of illumination. Additional LED task fixtures in the kitchen and bathroom will provide less intrusive lighting for those occasions when one occupant may not want to disturb a sleeping companion.

Just like a land-locked residence, don't skip putting under-layment beneath your new floor.

Alexa, our site supervisor, was on hand to make sure the job was done right.

A view with most of the flooring installed.

The flooring was also installed in July. RV flooring is usually installed before interior work is completed, and RV restoration/renovation should be done the same way, if you’re gutting and rebuilding the interior of your vintage RV. That way it will continue into cabinetry and closet bottoms without the hassle of trying to install after the fact. Do yourself a favor and spend a bit of extra money on heavy-duty floor protection paper and tape designed for construction. You won’t regret protecting your new flooring.

A piece of PVC sanitary panel was cut to fit the broken panel.

The plastic holders on either side of it (looks like silver trim) are also the hardware that keep

the tambour doors in place and make them operational.

The silver edges have a groove under them that helps to hold the center panel in place.

The front of this cabinet curves, so a replacement needs to be flexible and shouldn't be

thicker than 1/16" of an inch.

Don't forget to finish with a sealer around the edges.

On this entire cabinet we removed the old white silicone and replaced it with clear drying.

This piece of foam went behind the PVC panel and between the metal posts

that support the center front of the bulkhead cabinet.

The foam was included to provide a cushion for the clock.

It was part of the packaging from an electronic device we recently purchased.

Kristal trimmed it to the size she wanted, and since it was laminated in layers.

cut 2 layers out of the center to accommodate the depth of the clock back.

While the foam is glued to the PVC, the clock is not

so it can be removed to change batteries. 

If you do something similar, make sure the openings for your clock are snug.

Cut just a bit smaller than you think you should.

Otherwise, the clock is likely to come flying out while your trailer is bouncing down the road.

The tambour doors in the upper front cabinet have been painted silver and reinstalled. The center panel between the doors was accidentally broken, but it was probably going to happen eventually anyway. The old plastic was brittle.  While it was a bit disappointing at first, it became an opportunity to do something we liked better. Instead of keeping the tiny digital clock that ran on the house batteries, we’ve put a 3” quartz clock with a silver face in the new panel. A clock which runs on its own batteries was easier to install. No need to fuss with wiring in a tight space or hoping you have the correct wires in the first place.

Our current large project is replacing the dual axles on our trailer. It went to a repair shop 2 weeks ago to get the work completed. Replacement of axles is a rather lengthy subject, so we will address it in the next blog post.

While our trailer is in the shop, we will have them install the fresh water holding tank too. (Something we discussed with them prior to bringing them the trailer.) It is the largest of the three tanks and spans both axles. No better time to gain access to this spot while the axles are not in the way. We have the replacement tank so it’s not going to cause any delays. To keep labor costs down, we would prefer to install new the black and gray tanks ourselves. However, some things are worth paying for, so the repair shop is going to drop the old tanks and dispose of them after sending us photos and measurements. Once we’re armed with the info, it will hopefully be easier to find replacements. Until then, it’s kind of like trying to shoot the Invisible Man in the dark. (Getting tanks that are close to original makes installation easier, if your trailer still has originals. We don’t want to replace the belly pan and certainly don’t want to make major changes because fittings aren’t in the same place.)

To be honest, we had a short wish list by the time the trailer got to the shop. The 12V signal lights being one item. We had them resolved for last year’s state inspection, but since then we’ve finished installing the new Boondocker breaker box and changed out the old 12V glass fuses for updated blade fuses. That pesky 12V gremlin reared its ugly head. Vehicle headlights and trailer turn signals don’t want to play nice. At this point, it’s worth it to get professional help. A new door handle/lock is also being finished up by the pros. We got it installed to the point where we could lock the door again, but for long-term security we decided it was better to let the pros finish it up. One of many decisions you will be forced to make: how much are you willing to pay for reproduction parts specific to your RV? An exact copy of our original door lock is about $500. The replacement we chose was $70 and came with a dead-bolt, something the original didn’t have as part of the handle/lock. The latch locks with the key on both sides, while the bolt has a knob inside. The new lock required modifications to the door and frame. Still, even with shop labor, we won’t be spending $500 on it.

This is our new heat-on-demand hot water heater.

Once the trailer is back, we will finish the tanks and ramp up the interior work. That means finishing the bed platform; replacing the old fresh water plumbing with new PEX; finalizing the connections for the new hot water heater and rebuilding the bathroom; installing a new refrigerator and cabinetry. Then there will be the fun stuff (for Kristal), like window coverings & decorating. Kristal has been working on some of that stuff between other obligations. She’s made the blinds for the 3 largest windows and has 4 smaller ones left; for the kitchen, bathroom and 2 windows in the bedroom. She has also been painting or refurbishing original items we wanted to keep, like the tambour doors in the front cabinet and the globe light fixtures underneath. The top of the original cooking range and the tub base are getting the same treatment. Silver has been the accent color of choice for many of these projects.

Kristal recently had the realization that we need to step up the progress. Our younger daughter graduates from a college four states away from us in early May. One of the biggest reasons we embarked on this epic project was so we had a means to bring the fur kids, enabling both of us to travel together. Last August was actually our original deadline, but an unexpected event in late spring blew both our budget and schedule. The circumstances of this event meant we still needed to make our planned trip (which was no longer just for pleasure), so we did our best to finish projects with supplies we already had and make everything as safe as possible. While we were basically staying in a 31’ aluminum tent, working electricity and a pair of recliners made things tolerable. Modern campgrounds with flush toilets and hot showers helped, too. We were gone for 3 weeks and managed to enjoy ourselves for the most part. But it was a situation brought about by special circumstances. It wasn’t without its challenges. While we were reminded we’re more resilient then we realized, it’s not an experience we wish to repeat. Hopefully, we will have some time in the next 2 months to post some updates here. The post about axle replacement is almost finished. Otherwise, we will do our best to put photos of our progress on our “The Stellar Land Yacht” Pinterest board.

Dye is not a Girl’s Best Friend

After & before of our curtains.

The speckles on the blue panel are not caused by paint malfunction

or camera issues.

Kristal added a special effect to her paint, but isn't inclined to share what it is.

When we bought our 1979 Airstream, it was our hope that we could save as much original stuff as possible. The curtains certainly fell into that category. Like many things on vintage trailers, they aren’t inexpensive to replace, whether custom-made or ordered from a specialty vendor. (In the case of Airstreams, you can still get items from the trailer manufacturer, although the vintage of your trailer may eliminate them as a source for parts. But the makers of many vintage trailers went out of business a long time ago.)

Kristal does sew, but didn’t relish the notion of making reproductions of our curtains. Granted, the old curtains could have been dismantled and used as patterns. But the whole process would have been labor intensive. The original curtains are lined, with pleats on both the top and bottom. A lot of measuring and marking would have been needed to properly space the pleats, not to mention putting all the tabs/G-guides on. (Airstream curtains are mounted over the windows with metal tracks above and below.)

Our curtains weren’t in terrible condition. There is a small amount of fraying on two of them, and a few G-glides were missing here and there. Other than needing a good cleaning, there was only one major problem with them. Kristal didn’t care for their 1970s “natural” white color. Usually, when one thinks of changing a fabric color, dye is the first thing you reach for. We’re going on the record to tell you, “Don’t waste your money on dye.” It won’t work. (Kristal knows because she tried it first on a couple of panels.)

Here’s the problem with dye and original curtains in an older Airstream. In order for any kind of dye to work, you really need to know the fiber content. Kristal couldn’t find a label on any of the panels. Without that information it’s virtually impossible to get the results you want, though she did her best to make an educated guess. Plant fibers such as cotton require a different mordant than animal fibers like wool. Synthetic fibers are a different critter altogether. Other than i-Dye Poly (for polyester), she doesn’t know of any dyes available to the DIYer formulated to work on them. She tried RIT dye using the directions for cotton, and i-Dye Poly. Neither gave her the dark, saturated color she wanted even though she purchased dark hues. There were also spots where the dye didn’t take very well. It’s possible the fabric had been chemically treated, and even though she washed the curtains before doing anything with them, it didn’t wash out enough to make dying a satisfying venture.

To be honest, if you want good results with dye, you pretty much have to purchase the stuff designed for professionals or fiber artists. Then you need a scale to get an accurate weight of your fabric, plus the various chemicals needed to make your dye work properly. There will be other equipment, too; such as a dedicated dye vat, large non-reactive spoons, tongs etc. Don’t forget protective eye wear, gloves and coverings for your clothing. The cost of all these items add up, meaning it’s not the most economical option.

“OK, if dye is a waste of my time, what’s the solution?” We can hear some asking. Well, that would be fabric paint, because the technical complexity required by dye is removed. You will need at least 2-3 gallons worth. (Yes, you read that correctly.) How much you’re actually going to need will depend on how many panels are being  painted, desired intensity of color, and if you’re doing a solid or pattern . Our trailer was actually missing 3 curtain panels from the living area that covered the curb-side picture window and 2 street-side windows. However, there were still 7 panels left; 2 over the front windows and 5 in the bedroom. Kristal wanted the final color to be dark blue, and since she knew the paint would bleed thru to the lining side anyway, she added both sides of the curtains in her yardage calculations to determine amount of paint needed.

We are not always going to recommend specific products on this blog, but if we do, it’s not because we’re being paid to do so. Kristal has a definite favorite when it comes to fabric paints. She prefers Jacquard products. They have at least 3 different paints – Lumiere (multi-purpose pearls and metallics), Neopaque and Textile Color. Kristal used Textile Color, and at this time knows of only 2 venders who sell it in the gallon size, and it’s not available in brick & mortar stores. They are Dharma Trading and Jerry’s Artarama. Where you get the best deal will be determined by different factors. One of those is shipping. Gallon-size jars of paint are drop-shipped from the manufacturer, and it’s not cheap. If someone is offering free shipping on orders over a certain amount that’s your time to pounce. It’s also a good idea to take advantage of discounts offered to new customers who sign up for email notices. If you can combine the two, a significant amount of money could be saved. Please be aware that Jerry’s Artarama requires a minimum of 2 gallons for an order. But with the right offers, your paint could become very affordable.

Here are the reasons Kristal opted for fabric paint.

1       

      Suitable for any type of fabric. The need to know fiber content was eliminated.

2    There is a decent-sized pallet of colors available, and paints can be blended to create new colors. They can also be diluted with water.

3  

      Jacquard paints are heat-set to make them permanent. After heat-setting the paint is also softened considerably. The fabric doesn’t feel like it’s painted.

How you apply your paint will be a matter of experimentation and personal preference. It is a messy process that takes time no matter how you choose to do it. According to Jacquard, Textile Color can be diluted without diminishing the color’s strength, making it possible to treat the medium like a dye bath. Just bear in mind you’re coloring curtain panels that have more than a yard of fabric in them. (Double the amount, if lined.)  You will need a container big enough to hold paint for your panels, plus room for displacement of the liquid. When removing the curtains from the paint bath, you will want to recapture as much excess liquid as possible. Otherwise, you may not have enough product to finish your project. The panels will also need some place to hang and air-dry, regardless of paint application process. It’s not recommended to heat-set until the paint is dry.

Kristal didn’t want to dilute her paint since some of her curtains were no longer off-white. She set up her work space in the second bathroom shower. Our children are grown, so it’s a space she could use for a while without inconveniencing anyone. An inexpensive tension shower curtain rod was set up over the bath tub, and the curtains were draped over it while she painted them. To minimize as much mess as possible a large plastic storage tub was placed under the curtains. (We had one with a large crack in the side. Since it was going to be thrown out any way, there was no guilt or clean-up necessary afterwards.) The tub not only provided protection from drips. Kristal used a spray bottle and old rubber cleaning  gloves to apply the paint. The plastic tub provided a place to refill the spray bottle. It also held the gallon jars of paint after they were opened. The plastic tub captured at least 85% of the mess. Though she was doing her best to be tidy, Kristal will be the first to admit that paint is her nemesis. The good news? This product does wash off hard surfaces with cold water.

Someone may be scratching their head, wondering about the spray bottle and rubber gloves. Kristal’s customization of our curtains became an epic finger painting project. She did try using a large sponge brush but found the paint didn’t go nearly as far. It also took longer. Textile Color has a consistency which is almost gel-like, making it spray bottle friendly. However, in undiluted form, it lands on the fabric in large splats requiring another method to spread it about. Those splats also necessitate developing a method for holding the fabric at an angle while spraying. Otherwise, some paint might ricochet elsewhere. The advantages a spray bottle offers? It does get the paint a lot closer to the end target in a much neater fashion than dipping a hand into a gallon of paint. You can also put the nozzle between the pleats, making paint delivery much easier in tight spots. (Unless you have a large surface where you can lay your curtains flat, this kind of painting is a two-handed process. One hand behind the curtain for support while the other works the paint into the fabric.)

For larger projects, heat-setting is easiest to accomplish in the dryer. Use the hottest setting available. Our dryer is more than 17 years old, so Kristal wasn’t worried about discolorization of the drum. Paint left behind to stain something else shouldn’t be an issue when it’s completely dry. If you have a fancy new dryer with a flat drying rack, you could probably use it provided your curtain panels aren’t too large for it. A steam feature would be useful too. Sadly, dryers didn’t come with that option when we bought ours. An old hand towel was wet down and put into the dryer with the curtains. Use timed drying. Thirty to forty minutes is enough.

Kristal will be the first to acknowledge this isn’t a project for everyone. For one thing, most of us have different definitions of “practical”. Saving and painting our curtains made sense to her, though it wasn’t “cheap” and was a bit tedious. It was still considerably less than paying for custom curtains, and didn’t require thinking too hard. Making them what she wanted eliminated the necessity of disposal, too.

Renovating a vintage RV is a once-in-a-lifetime project for many who attempt it. Don’t be afraid to try ideas that seem crazy. Fabric paint fell into the “crazy” category when Kristal first considered it. Until this point, any projects including it were for embellishment. They certainly didn’t involve such a large quantity. When the first option didn’t work, she kept finding herself coming back to the paint. Thanks to a small bottle of the product, which happened to be in her project stash, she was able to do some tests on a dyed panel and an original. They tipped the decision. Being able to try things on a small scale might not be possible for all projects, though. Find your courage and make a leap of faith!

Our Blue Heaven (Almost)

The shades over the Vista View windows still need to be painted.

We were going to wait until we had the opportunity to break out the inner glass panes

so the damaged window tint could be removed.

But we're still trying to find the gasket that would secure the remaining glass.

We decided to paint the shades this week.

Kristal is going to make Roman shades for the big windows, with a dark teal

similar to the front cabinet. The Vista shades will be painted the same color.

Among the many projects we’ve been working on since gutting the interior, cleaning and painting the walls has been one of the big ones. The painting is mostly finished now, with many touchups completed. Outlets have also been spray painted so they blend in better with the walls. (They were an ivory plastic which had become discolored with age.)

These are the bathroom outlets.

One is 12V (top) and the other is 110V. 

Before spray painting these, the 12V opening was covered to keep paint out of it.

Printed pieces of paper from the computer printer were cut to fit around all outlets

being painted to protect the walls from over-spray.

(Paper sheet left mostly intact with one slit cut to center, where a small rectangle was cut to fit

back side of outlet. Paper was then taped to close the slit and secured to wall with painters tape.)

Most outlets in our Airstream are one-piece units, meaning there isn't a

separate plate on the outside.

They can't be removed completely from the wall without cutting wires.

However, if you're careful, they can be pulled out enough to paint the walls behind them.

This one of the living room outlets.

The spray paint color is a little darker than the wall color, but overall a good match.

We have discovered that some retailers, like Lowes are now starting to make

spray paints in the same shades for Valspar paint colors they have

as roll-on latexes, etc.

The dark blue spray paint we used on the inside of the front cabinet and screen frames

is one of those colors.

If there is a matching spray paint, it will be noted on the paint chip.

Of course, if having exact shades in all your paints really matters to you,

choose your colors from the spray paints first.

Stores like Lowes, which have their own line of canned and spray paints,

probably have color mixing formulas for the shades found in their spray paint inventory.

PS: If you want to see our latest updates for the Airstream, most of them can be found on the Air Forums, with a lot more pictures. Unfortunately, we don't have enough time right now to spend on both the forum and our blog. Besides, the forum is where we go to get assistance from the experts. To find us, use the member search. Our user name is "Starstream".