Dye is not a Girl’s Best Friend

After & before of our curtains.

The speckles on the blue panel are not caused by paint malfunction

or camera issues.

Kristal added a special effect to her paint, but isn't inclined to share what it is.

When we bought our 1979 Airstream, it was our hope that we could save as much original stuff as possible. The curtains certainly fell into that category. Like many things on vintage trailers, they aren’t inexpensive to replace, whether custom-made or ordered from a specialty vendor. (In the case of Airstreams, you can still get items from the trailer manufacturer, although the vintage of your trailer may eliminate them as a source for parts. But the makers of many vintage trailers went out of business a long time ago.)

Kristal does sew, but didn’t relish the notion of making reproductions of our curtains. Granted, the old curtains could have been dismantled and used as patterns. But the whole process would have been labor intensive. The original curtains are lined, with pleats on both the top and bottom. A lot of measuring and marking would have been needed to properly space the pleats, not to mention putting all the tabs/G-guides on. (Airstream curtains are mounted over the windows with metal tracks above and below.)

Our curtains weren’t in terrible condition. There is a small amount of fraying on two of them, and a few G-glides were missing here and there. Other than needing a good cleaning, there was only one major problem with them. Kristal didn’t care for their 1970s “natural” white color. Usually, when one thinks of changing a fabric color, dye is the first thing you reach for. We’re going on the record to tell you, “Don’t waste your money on dye.” It won’t work. (Kristal knows because she tried it first on a couple of panels.)

Here’s the problem with dye and original curtains in an older Airstream. In order for any kind of dye to work, you really need to know the fiber content. Kristal couldn’t find a label on any of the panels. Without that information it’s virtually impossible to get the results you want, though she did her best to make an educated guess. Plant fibers such as cotton require a different mordant than animal fibers like wool. Synthetic fibers are a different critter altogether. Other than i-Dye Poly (for polyester), she doesn’t know of any dyes available to the DIYer formulated to work on them. She tried RIT dye using the directions for cotton, and i-Dye Poly. Neither gave her the dark, saturated color she wanted even though she purchased dark hues. There were also spots where the dye didn’t take very well. It’s possible the fabric had been chemically treated, and even though she washed the curtains before doing anything with them, it didn’t wash out enough to make dying a satisfying venture.

To be honest, if you want good results with dye, you pretty much have to purchase the stuff designed for professionals or fiber artists. Then you need a scale to get an accurate weight of your fabric, plus the various chemicals needed to make your dye work properly. There will be other equipment, too; such as a dedicated dye vat, large non-reactive spoons, tongs etc. Don’t forget protective eye wear, gloves and coverings for your clothing. The cost of all these items add up, meaning it’s not the most economical option.

“OK, if dye is a waste of my time, what’s the solution?” We can hear some asking. Well, that would be fabric paint, because the technical complexity required by dye is removed. You will need at least 2-3 gallons worth. (Yes, you read that correctly.) How much you’re actually going to need will depend on how many panels are being  painted, desired intensity of color, and if you’re doing a solid or pattern . Our trailer was actually missing 3 curtain panels from the living area that covered the curb-side picture window and 2 street-side windows. However, there were still 7 panels left; 2 over the front windows and 5 in the bedroom. Kristal wanted the final color to be dark blue, and since she knew the paint would bleed thru to the lining side anyway, she added both sides of the curtains in her yardage calculations to determine amount of paint needed.

We are not always going to recommend specific products on this blog, but if we do, it’s not because we’re being paid to do so. Kristal has a definite favorite when it comes to fabric paints. She prefers Jacquard products. They have at least 3 different paints – Lumiere (multi-purpose pearls and metallics), Neopaque and Textile Color. Kristal used Textile Color, and at this time knows of only 2 venders who sell it in the gallon size, and it’s not available in brick & mortar stores. They are Dharma Trading and Jerry’s Artarama. Where you get the best deal will be determined by different factors. One of those is shipping. Gallon-size jars of paint are drop-shipped from the manufacturer, and it’s not cheap. If someone is offering free shipping on orders over a certain amount that’s your time to pounce. It’s also a good idea to take advantage of discounts offered to new customers who sign up for email notices. If you can combine the two, a significant amount of money could be saved. Please be aware that Jerry’s Artarama requires a minimum of 2 gallons for an order. But with the right offers, your paint could become very affordable.

Here are the reasons Kristal opted for fabric paint.

1       

      Suitable for any type of fabric. The need to know fiber content was eliminated.

2    There is a decent-sized pallet of colors available, and paints can be blended to create new colors. They can also be diluted with water.

3  

      Jacquard paints are heat-set to make them permanent. After heat-setting the paint is also softened considerably. The fabric doesn’t feel like it’s painted.

How you apply your paint will be a matter of experimentation and personal preference. It is a messy process that takes time no matter how you choose to do it. According to Jacquard, Textile Color can be diluted without diminishing the color’s strength, making it possible to treat the medium like a dye bath. Just bear in mind you’re coloring curtain panels that have more than a yard of fabric in them. (Double the amount, if lined.)  You will need a container big enough to hold paint for your panels, plus room for displacement of the liquid. When removing the curtains from the paint bath, you will want to recapture as much excess liquid as possible. Otherwise, you may not have enough product to finish your project. The panels will also need some place to hang and air-dry, regardless of paint application process. It’s not recommended to heat-set until the paint is dry.

Kristal didn’t want to dilute her paint since some of her curtains were no longer off-white. She set up her work space in the second bathroom shower. Our children are grown, so it’s a space she could use for a while without inconveniencing anyone. An inexpensive tension shower curtain rod was set up over the bath tub, and the curtains were draped over it while she painted them. To minimize as much mess as possible a large plastic storage tub was placed under the curtains. (We had one with a large crack in the side. Since it was going to be thrown out any way, there was no guilt or clean-up necessary afterwards.) The tub not only provided protection from drips. Kristal used a spray bottle and old rubber cleaning  gloves to apply the paint. The plastic tub provided a place to refill the spray bottle. It also held the gallon jars of paint after they were opened. The plastic tub captured at least 85% of the mess. Though she was doing her best to be tidy, Kristal will be the first to admit that paint is her nemesis. The good news? This product does wash off hard surfaces with cold water.

Someone may be scratching their head, wondering about the spray bottle and rubber gloves. Kristal’s customization of our curtains became an epic finger painting project. She did try using a large sponge brush but found the paint didn’t go nearly as far. It also took longer. Textile Color has a consistency which is almost gel-like, making it spray bottle friendly. However, in undiluted form, it lands on the fabric in large splats requiring another method to spread it about. Those splats also necessitate developing a method for holding the fabric at an angle while spraying. Otherwise, some paint might ricochet elsewhere. The advantages a spray bottle offers? It does get the paint a lot closer to the end target in a much neater fashion than dipping a hand into a gallon of paint. You can also put the nozzle between the pleats, making paint delivery much easier in tight spots. (Unless you have a large surface where you can lay your curtains flat, this kind of painting is a two-handed process. One hand behind the curtain for support while the other works the paint into the fabric.)

For larger projects, heat-setting is easiest to accomplish in the dryer. Use the hottest setting available. Our dryer is more than 17 years old, so Kristal wasn’t worried about discolorization of the drum. Paint left behind to stain something else shouldn’t be an issue when it’s completely dry. If you have a fancy new dryer with a flat drying rack, you could probably use it provided your curtain panels aren’t too large for it. A steam feature would be useful too. Sadly, dryers didn’t come with that option when we bought ours. An old hand towel was wet down and put into the dryer with the curtains. Use timed drying. Thirty to forty minutes is enough.

Kristal will be the first to acknowledge this isn’t a project for everyone. For one thing, most of us have different definitions of “practical”. Saving and painting our curtains made sense to her, though it wasn’t “cheap” and was a bit tedious. It was still considerably less than paying for custom curtains, and didn’t require thinking too hard. Making them what she wanted eliminated the necessity of disposal, too.

Renovating a vintage RV is a once-in-a-lifetime project for many who attempt it. Don’t be afraid to try ideas that seem crazy. Fabric paint fell into the “crazy” category when Kristal first considered it. Until this point, any projects including it were for embellishment. They certainly didn’t involve such a large quantity. When the first option didn’t work, she kept finding herself coming back to the paint. Thanks to a small bottle of the product, which happened to be in her project stash, she was able to do some tests on a dyed panel and an original. They tipped the decision. Being able to try things on a small scale might not be possible for all projects, though. Find your courage and make a leap of faith!

Our Blue Heaven (Almost)

The shades over the Vista View windows still need to be painted.

We were going to wait until we had the opportunity to break out the inner glass panes

so the damaged window tint could be removed.

But we're still trying to find the gasket that would secure the remaining glass.

We decided to paint the shades this week.

Kristal is going to make Roman shades for the big windows, with a dark teal

similar to the front cabinet. The Vista shades will be painted the same color.

Among the many projects we’ve been working on since gutting the interior, cleaning and painting the walls has been one of the big ones. The painting is mostly finished now, with many touchups completed. Outlets have also been spray painted so they blend in better with the walls. (They were an ivory plastic which had become discolored with age.)

These are the bathroom outlets.

One is 12V (top) and the other is 110V. 

Before spray painting these, the 12V opening was covered to keep paint out of it.

Printed pieces of paper from the computer printer were cut to fit around all outlets

being painted to protect the walls from over-spray.

(Paper sheet left mostly intact with one slit cut to center, where a small rectangle was cut to fit

back side of outlet. Paper was then taped to close the slit and secured to wall with painters tape.)

Most outlets in our Airstream are one-piece units, meaning there isn't a

separate plate on the outside.

They can't be removed completely from the wall without cutting wires.

However, if you're careful, they can be pulled out enough to paint the walls behind them.

This one of the living room outlets.

The spray paint color is a little darker than the wall color, but overall a good match.

We have discovered that some retailers, like Lowes are now starting to make

spray paints in the same shades for Valspar paint colors they have

as roll-on latexes, etc.

The dark blue spray paint we used on the inside of the front cabinet and screen frames

is one of those colors.

If there is a matching spray paint, it will be noted on the paint chip.

Of course, if having exact shades in all your paints really matters to you,

choose your colors from the spray paints first.

Stores like Lowes, which have their own line of canned and spray paints,

probably have color mixing formulas for the shades found in their spray paint inventory.

PS: If you want to see our latest updates for the Airstream, most of them can be found on the Air Forums, with a lot more pictures. Unfortunately, we don't have enough time right now to spend on both the forum and our blog. Besides, the forum is where we go to get assistance from the experts. To find us, use the member search. Our user name is "Starstream". 

Travel Trailers are Like Onions

When renovating an older RV, you must have a priority list. Everyone’s goals are different. Some may want everything to be done before heading into the great unknown.  Others don’t mind starting their explorations with less, knowing they are on track to achieve their dream RV. Whatever your personal goals, you must have an order in which you tackle your punch-list to keep on track. Just be prepared to make some adjustments occasionally. Sometimes tackling a task is dictated by the availability of a certain part, or getting it for the best possible price. (We’ve noticed that RV parts sometimes tend to be less expensive in winter, when many people have their units in storage, and may not be thinking about repairs until they’re ready to travel again.) There is always the possibility some of your plans will change once your trailer is in your possession. When your dream becomes reality, you will have the chance to examine things closer. Some items that are old and tired may be removed because they just aren’t worth repairing.

One of our major projects at the top of the list is replacing the fresh water holding tank because we know it leaks. The gray and black tanks are a mystery right now. At some point the PO(s) decided to remove the toilet and replaced it with a porta-pottie. We haven’t found anything in their notes indicating a problem with those tanks. The floor mounting for a toilet looks new, so they may have intended to put in a new unit but weren’t able to finish the task. In order to assess all the holding tanks we have to “peel one layer of the onion.” Doing so means elevating the trailer on jacks in order to remove the belly pans covering them, or to take up some of the interior sub-floor. But only if it can be done without disturbing the interior walls. (The POs did an excellent job keeping water damage to a minimum, so it’s not necessary to totally dismantle this trailer.) We’re crossing our fingers that the black and gray tanks are intact. Direct replacements have been difficult to find for our 1979 Airstream Sovereign with center bath /rear bedroom. It appears the roomier rear bath tended to be more popular and more units were produced. But in our search for a trailer, we decided early on that the accompanying set of center twin beds didn’t appeal us. It does demonstrate, though, that rare can sometimes be problematic.

In order to complete a punch-list task, it may be necessary to accomplish something different first. In our effort to reach the tanks, we decided removing the entire interior would help. From the beginning we knew the old carpet was going.

Continuing examination of all the cabinetry led to the conclusion they really were not salvageable. The vinyl-covered aluminum / plastic upper cabinets had cracks at various stress points. The cabinets’ wood-look paper exterior was delaminating and once started, just kept peeling off. There was actually a two-fold reason for removing this stuff first. One, it will reduce the weight of the trailer a bit before putting it on jacks. Two, it opens up the access to the electrical and plumbing systems.

Depending on your make/model of trailer and a PO’s renovations, you may discover that a good portion of wires and pipes are not behind the interior walls. Instead they’re hidden in closets and cabinets.

When you know you’re not saving something, anything like finesse or patience might go out the window. However, you can not completely abandon them. Those hidden wires might be perfectly re-usable, especially if they’re copper. Unless you’re planning to completely dismantle your RV, you don’t want to damage any of the important stuff before you have a chance to identify its purpose. Do yourself a favor. Take the time to see how components are connected to each other—take notes and pictures of everything before just pulling and cutting away. The piece of cabinetry that seemed like the easiest place to start may be connected to another piece in a hidden place.  There was a reason for the manufacturer or PO to construct things the way they did. Fastest way to install might be one reason, but the interior of a trailer needs to be secured in a manner that keeps everything intact while traveling. (“Floats on Clouds” is not a suitable nickname. It will be more like “Hurricane Trailer”.) Impatience can lead to more work down the road if care is not taken when dismantling.

As far as our holding tanks go, they will all have to be connected to various plumbing components under and inside the trailer. (Such as a new pump for fresh water. The old one was located inside the former closet.)

Where appropriate, we plan to replace a lot of old water lines with PEX tubing. Our interior has been peeled away for a couple of weeks now. Once the major mechanicals are updated and painting of the interior walls is completed, we’ll install new flooring and build new cabinetry. For the most part, we will duplicate the original floor plan, with only minor modifications. After all, the original layout is one of the things that hooked us into this big aluminum onion.

A Can of Worms

This isn't exactly "After", but a temporary set-up until we're ready 

to install the new breaker box/ 12V fuse panel.

Worms! They seem so innocent, going about the business of amending soil. But just wait until you open a can of them.

Used and vintage travel trailers can be the very epitome of a “can of worms.” You may think you’re starting with a relatively simple project on your punch list. Say, replacing the exterior traffic lights. Easy-peasy! Should only take a few days to get them all completed_.

One by one, all the old lights are gradually changed out for new, fancy LEDs. You think you’re almost finished and ready to move on to the next project. Hook up the tow vehicle to test your work. What the…? Everything seems to start off OK, then all of a sudden clearance lights are on when they shouldn’t be, or turn signals are not blinking when they should. Step on the brakes. All the exterior lights come on….that can’t be right. Even the license plate light blinks, though it should only come on with the headlights. The only lights not coming on at all are the back-ups. Morris Code can be seen from every angle by tapping the brakes. ZAP! One of the fuses in the vehicle’s tow package has blown.

Folks, when it comes to the various mechanicals that make your RV a cozy traveling home, nothing is more aggravating than electrical. (May change our opinion later, but there will be interior electrical changes made too.) There are three separate electrical systems which run appliances, lights and outside safety signals; 120V - similar to residential and runs on shore power or generators, and 12V which uses batteries (either from your tow vehicle or from the RV).

Anyone who has a basic understanding of these systems may feel they can comfortably renovate a travel trailer. Be honest about your ability and patience before committing to such a project. It may take more than one try to get something working properly. Also, can your budget handle it? In the effort to make things work, you may find you purchased items you didn’t need in the first place, you have to purchase additional materials, or buy replacements for the replacements because something got fried. The motto of many RV restoration/renovation enthusiasts is, “We do it right because we did it more than once.”

If you need expert help, it may be in your best interest and safety to have a certified RV repair technician assist you. To find a qualified technician we would recommend getting acquainted with other RV owners in your area, and through RV forums. Be prepared though. It could take anywhere from a couple of weeks to a month or more before a shop has an opening. Time of year can make a big difference in RV repair availability, and some shops are busy year round. It is a safe bet that even the most ultimate DIYers have used, or know of someone who has used local RV service centers at some point. Seek their council before you decide to work with a repair shop. Like many businesses, customer satisfaction varies greatly.

If, after you have weighed all the pros and cons, and still want to take on a project, we have a bit of advice. Friends or relatives may be able to help sort some electrical difficulties, but don’t be too dependent on their assistance. We have a friend who is a retired master electrician. He possesses an encyclopedic knowledge of residential electrical and doesn’t mind trouble-shooting with us, but he is the first to say 12 volt electrical is beyond his scope. Kristal’s dad has many years of experience with various utility trailers and a couple of RVs. He thinks trailer wiring is the devil’s work. RV owners’ forums are great for advice, but there may be differences of opinion. So, do your own research, weed through what others have done and tried (learn from their mistakes), and be prepared to try different things. Don’t be afraid to ask questions on the forums and be a part of lively discussions. Lastly, household wiring must meet specific codes, and so does wiring for the RV industry. Just like household renovation, sometimes things must be updated to code. Be prepared and flexible.

Now wait a minute, we can hear some say. “I thought you checked all this stuff before you bought your trailer.” Well, yes, we examined as much as we could when we first looked at it. But someone was living in it at the time, and even if they weren’t, a buyer can’t reasonably expect to dismantle something before it belongs to them. Since shore power and a battery were available, it was possible to turn on lights and run the air conditioner. We noticed some of the exterior signal lights needed replacement. However, there was nothing to indicate there were any major problems with any of these lights. When we first saw our Airstream it was in a backyard. Though there was alley access, it wasn’t practical to get our Expedition in there to test the signals. If we had to do it over again, we would have purchased a trailer tester (see below.), before shopping for a vintage travel trailer. Since our trailer was closed up, mostly intact, and generally well-cared for when we looked at it, the best we could do was cross our fingers and make a leap of faith, knowing full well there were likely to be some unexpected surprises. (Comes with the territory, especially if you’re a newbie.)

This is the tester we now have for the signal lights. The one we purchased is a 7-way blade plug tester. Be sure to purchase the correct one for your application (7-way blade or pin, 6-way, 5-way or 4-way). This tester has a setting for each of the lights, making it easier to find a problem child. It also allows us to check all of the exterior lights without having to hook up the tow vehicle. It doesn't come with a battery. We highly recommend purchasing a sealed AGM (doesn’t need maintenance), but be prepared to pay as much for it as the trailer tester itself.

This is the original 12V fuse panel with wiring modified by the PO.

Some wires, such as the the old breakaway switch were impossible to find.

Our trailer did come with a service manual and quite a few notes from the previous owner (PO). They’ve been both a blessing and a curse, especially when we discovered some substantial wiring changes were made at the front of the trailer and not really documented. We were aware from the beginning that the PO had removed the gaucho couch, necessitating relocation of the converter/charger and one 12V battery to the A-frame. (There were oringinally 2 batteries.) During the testing of our signal lights, we became concerned the trailer’s old 7-way harness wire may have a short which was causing our problems with the signals. In which case, the new plug we installed wasn’t going to help. Replacing the cord required removing the metal box holding the old converter & battery, opening up the bottom front of the trailer, and removing the interior front panel that covered the wires & 12V fuse box inside. There was more than a little bit of cursing. The converter box was a bastard to remove, and the wiring didn’t resemble anything in the Airstream service manual or any online diagrams.

This is the A-frame after being repainted and the new electric jack was installed.

The small black box mounted on the frame behind the jack contains

the excess wires from the new breakaway switch and jack.

We decided to put it in the box for protection from weather & road dirt.

Since the trailer was open anyway, it seemed like a good time to clean up and repaint the A-frame, and install the new electric jack & break-away switch. After the hours to complete those tasks, along with the time it took to trace old wires and make sure the new 7-way hitch cord was properly connected, it was our friend’s opinion that the relays we added to the trailer turn signals might be causing some of the issues we were still having with the exterior lights. We were at the point where there was nothing else left to try, so the turn signals were opened up again to remove them. Our friend’s hunch proved correct. Without the resistors, the traffic lights passed all their tests with flying colors.

So, was it necessary to do the A-frame work? Yes, it was. These tasks were already on the punch list anyway. As far as the resistors are concerned, it is a bit annoying to discover we didn’t need them. It was our decision to include them, since we didn’t know if our older tow vehicle would recognize the LED signals. The resistors didn’t cost more than a few dollars each. Still, time matters too. Just like home improvement, you may as well figure RV renovation is going to take you three times longer than you thought and possibly double the initial cost.

If you want to see additional pictures of the A-frame work, including before pics with the old converter box, they can be found on the Airstream forum where we're known as Starstream. Make inquiries here in the comments, and we'll let you know what threads to look at.

Aaaaggghhh!!!

The license fixture looks so innocent, but it was missing a second wire.

It was recently fixed by replacing the original socket with a fixture

that has two wires.

When possible, try to remove old parts before ordering new ones.

This blog post was going to include another video showing how we re-assembled our rear signal lights to make the conversion to LED. However, we had to make some adjustments when putting the lights back in our Airstream. It turned out to be a task that required two sets of hands, meaning it wasn’t possible to videotape the remainder of the process. (Might be looking into a Go-Pro camera.) An explanation of the adjustments will appear in this post shortly.

Since our trailer can’t be in the driveway for very long periods of time, we’ve been changing out all the clearance lights where it’s stored. The signal lights were a lot more involved. The push buttons on the sockets were broken and/or corroded and needed to be replaced. So we removed the cover lenses, rubber seals and the metal cans for each fixture, and brought them back to the house. To remove the cans, you will have to cut the wires that are connected to the light sockets. Make sure you’re cutting close to the cans (the more usable wire left on the trailer, the better), keeping each can’s wire group together, and marking where each wire goes in the series. We used a LED replacement kit. This kit made some of the chore of reinstalling everything much easier. (You will want to cover the openings for the fixtures to keep water out of the trailer, in the event the job won't be completed the same day.)

Why not just use LED replacement bulbs in the existing fixtures? We tried them first. Even though we used LED lights designed for automotive use, they were difficult to see in the Airstream light fixtures. (Old sockets didn’t help.) There are also other considerations when converting to LED lights. If you have an older tow vehicle like we do (1999 Ford Expedition), you may need to add a resistor to one of your 2-pole sockets on each side of the trailer. Otherwise, due to the low power usage of LEDs, your signal lights may not blink. As a side note, we need to make a correction to the previous post. When towing a travel trailer, the only thing pulling power from the trailer’s 12V battery is the breakaway switch. In the event of an emergency where trailer and tow vehicle become separated, it applies the trailer’s brakes. All the light signals get their power from the tow vehicle battery.

This is the signal light kit we used. http://led4rv.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=15&products_id=292   The owner of this business is very helpful. He not only assisted us with purchase of correct parts and instructions for installing our lights, he even emailed us a diagram explaining how we needed to wire a new 7-way plug on the Airstream hitch cord.

Here are a few other things to keep in mind when changing the signal lights on a travel trailer.

We can’t stress enough to document everything with pictures. Before cutting wires from old fixtures, make note of the wire colors and what is connected where. As we’ve already discovered, some trailer manufactures used their own wire colors for some electrical functions and may not be universal to all. Don’t rely on your memory to make sure you’re connecting everything properly, especially if you need to complete the job at a later date. Many travel trailers, like ours, do not have a lot of air space between the outside shell and interior walls. For the turn signals, we used wire nuts to connect the old wires with the new, just in case we didn’t wire something correctly. Removing wire nuts is a lot easier than cutting and splicing; only to find out you have wired it wrong and need to change the configuration and cut and splice it again. Purchase the smallest wire nuts you can easily work with. If the wire nuts are too big, you might not be able to get a snug, water-tight fit when placing the cans back into their openings. Using enough wire allows the whole configuration to be tucked around the cans.

Two other items should become a permanent part of your traveling toolbox; a tester for your vehicle’s tow package, and another tester designed for your travel trailer. Be prepared to spend a bit of money for a trailer tester, if you want one that can trouble shoot your electrical problems. The correct trailer tester can also serve a dual purpose. It can be used for emergency hazard lighting for the trailer if you must leave it along the side of the road without the tow vehicle. It’s important that this tool has its own source of power for testing your trailer signal lights. (See correction above. The trailer tester we first purchased supposedly worked with the trailer’s 12V battery. Guess what, it didn’t work the clearance/signal lights and has been returned.) Oh, and one more thing. Make sure you keep the owner’s manual for your tow vehicle (or locate one for your vehicle). Sooner or later, something in the tow package will fail, especially when testing new lights on the trailer. Replacing fuses and relays isn’t difficult as long as you know the correct parts and where they go.

Now, back to our tail lights. We put the resistors on the back of the cans initially, and discovered the hard way there isn’t enough room for them between the cans and the interior wall. Next we tried adding the resistors to the side of the can. This too did not allow enough room to fit everything back on the trailer. It turned out they did fit on the inside of the can alongside the socket and still allowed enough room for the LED light fixture. Obviously, it took a bit of trial an error, not to mention time, to make the adjustments.

We spent 4-5 hrs. re-locating the resistors, reconnecting wires and closing everything up. After all that work, we hooked the Airstream to the SUV for a test. (We were still deciding on a trailer tester.) Everything seemed to be working properly until we turned on the vehicle headlights. Then it all went south. We think our culprit might be the new license plate fixture. The trailer originally had two wires, but Karl believes the replacement came with a single wire bulb socket, therefore the circuit isn’t being completed. (Pictures, people, pictures!) When you have incomplete circuits, missing grounds, or shorts your trailer lights will do all kinds of aggravating things. The one thing they won’t do is work properly. Big sigh… That means the license plate fixture will be removed in a few days to correct it. For our next test, we’ll probably be crossing every possible body part to the point of being contortionists, hoping we’re finally ready to move on to the next project. (Replacing holding tanks. Woohoo!!)