The Badlands

Kristal was a bit worried a cloudy day would dull the colors of the rock formations.

Actually, it doesn’t affect the colors much at all, and an overcast day

means you can take pictures in any direction without worrying how

the sun will glare on your lens.

Since it’s an election year and there has been plenty of other “stuff” in the news, we’re not sure how many Americans know an important milestone has occurred in our country.

This year the National Park Service is celebrating a big birthday – 100 years. Have a special family event coming up? Instead of spending your precious time in an amusement park, why not join the birthday celebration and go play in America’s backyard?

Seven attractions in South Dakota are under the supervision of the National Park Service. Of the natural attractions, The Badlands are probably the best known.

Several signs are situated around the park.

Most of the signs we saw were located at overlooks

or on a broadwalk that allows you to view the prairie up close.

 The Badlands are mostly oriented East to West with two entrances into the park. You can do a one way trip through the park like we did, depending on which way you travel there, what you want to do while visiting, and where you’re traveling when you leave.

We traveled to the Badlands from Ft. Randall Dam. Rather than following the Missouri River up to I-90, we got on Hwy. 18 and headed west. We picked up lunch and topped off the gas tank in Winner. No matter how much gas you have, fill the tank in Winner if you take the same route we did. Once you get into the Indian reservations, gas stations are difficult to find. (The one gas station we did locate right off the highway wasn’t a very good fit for our big van and 31 ft. trailer. The pumps were also old and didn’t take cards for payment. We got gas in Interior before driving through the Badlands.) From Winner you can take Hwys 183 & 44 to Interior, or you can stay on Hwy 18 to Mission, then take 83 to 44. Just be aware traveling through this part of the state can be a bit challenging. While they are paved, most of the highways are not in great condition. You also won’t have a cell phone signal all the time, or see a lot of people. However, your sense of adventure will be rewarded with the feeling that you have the world to yourself.

For those who want to camp, there are some options including 2 campgrounds run by the NPS. The campground at the Southeast entrance of the park is right off the paved road. It has electrical hookups. The other campground at the west end of the park is undeveloped and off a gravel road. There are also some private RV parks in or near Interior, the small town closest to the Southeast entrance. We stayed at the KOA located about 4 miles SE of Interior because it was not only a full-service RV park, but was the most sheltered place we could find in the area. When the weather is cold and windy, small valleys and scrubby trees (when there are few in the area) can make camping more tolerable, even with an RV. It also turned out to be an interesting place to do some people watching. A big, red double-decker bus full of European tourists stopped there for the night, too. From what we could gather, there were a total of 25 people including the driver, and the bus had individual sleeping compartments for everyone.

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Kristal has done a little research to identify some of the plants she photographed,

But she hasn’t found positive IDs for some of them.

We’re guessing this little beauty is a primrose.

The flowers’ shape and their stamens are very similar to the pink primroses

we have here in Texas, but the foliage isn’t the same.

Notice the “soil” around this plant. It looks like it should be soft and powdery.

Don’t be fooled. It’s hard and slippery almost like glass.

Park officials would prefer visitors don’t leave paved areas or paths anyway.

If you need to get closer to something within a few feet of designated areas,

step carefully.

Not sure what this plant is either. Perhaps a type of Clover?

As for the Badlands themselves, the road provided by the NPS is nice to drive on and many pull-offs/scenic overlooks are available for your photo taking opportunities. Though it’s a time of year when the weather can be uncertain, we recommend going in the spring. The multi-colored rock formations are even more interesting to look at when surrounded by a sea of green prairie grass. There will also be blooming wild flowers. Sometime between early to mid-summer the prairie grasses on the Great Plains usually turn brown. Of course, when this happens depends on how much rainfall occurs into summer. By the time we got home in early June, Kristal’s uncle reported it got hot in the Black Hills and the grass was already brown. Other years, it can stay green in the area most of the summer.

Big Horn Sheep are quite good at blending into their environment,

and we almost missed them.

Kristal is still shopping for additional lenses for her camera and was using her kit lens.

She got as close as she dared to this group (1 ram & 3 ewes) without disturbing them.

Wildlife sightings in the Badlands are possible. Seeing the prairie dogs is pretty much a given. They are active most of the day and some of their “towns” aren’t too far from the road. If you’ve never seen them before, they can be entertaining to watch. Other sightings are going to be dependent on animal species and time of day. We drove through the park during mid to late morning and had given up hope of seeing anything else, since we were on our way out at the west end. Suddenly, we noticed some movement on the south side of the highway. A Big Horned Sheep was walking along the edge of a ravine, while a small group lay on the ground nearby. If it hadn’t been for the moving sheep, we would have missed them. Unfortunately, the area where they were located was beyond the pullouts and overlooks. The only option we had for getting photos was to pull onto the gravel road that goes to the undeveloped campground so Kristal could walk back with her camera.

Information about the park can be found here - https://www.nps.gov/badl/upload/Badlands%20Visitor%20Guide%202009-2.pdf

The extent of our visit was driving thru and taking photos, but since Karl has an America the Beautiful Pass, we may be back for a longer visit. Kristal would like to attend the Night Sky Program. Sadly, we were there before it started in June.

After we left the Badlands, we went to Wall and made a brief stop at Wall Drug. Traveling with an RV? Just follow the signs to the over-size vehicle parking lot. Besides the famous free glass of ice water, there is a restaurant and plenty of gift stores. Think of it as a Western and Pioneer themed shopping mall. (Though in their defense, the original drug store has been around longer than most malls – since 1931) We were traveling with our pets, so we weren’t able stay very long. Still, it’s one of South Dakota’s original tourist traps. Those first glasses of ice water were handed out in 1936, during an era when Americans were starting to discover the joys of leisure travel. Note that year, fellow Airstreamers. It’s the same one that saw another icon take to the open road for fun and adventure. That alone makes Wall Drug worth at least one visit in our opinion. Learn about it here - http://www.walldrug.com/

North Point Recreation Area, Ft. Randall Dam

A view from the north side of Lake Francis Case to the south,

looking across the main channel of the reservoir and Missouri River.

If you’ve ever traveled in South Dakota it’s a good possibility you have encountered the Missouri river at least once. Traveling East/West on I-90, or through the Southeast corner of the state to/from Nebraska, means crossing it somewhere along the way.

When it comes to rivers in the United States, the Mississippi is probably the most famous. But it isn’t actually the longest. That honor actually goes to the Missouri, which is one of the Mississippi’s larger tributaries. While the Mississippi is a major shipping route, the Missouri is the gateway to the West. It has long-standing importance to Native Americans, but its contribution to US history starts with the explorers Lewis and Clark. During the early 19^th century it continued to be a route for fur trappers, then became a thoroughfare for pioneers and river boats. By the 20^th century, it was a source of irrigation and electricity, with several dams built on it, including the 6 mainstem dams. The mainstems are hydroelectric and hold some of the largest reservoirs in the US. Four of those dams are in South Dakota.

South Dakotans are well aware of the recreational opportunities to be found on the Missouri River. But if you’re in the habit of just crossing over it on the way to the Black Hills, you’re missing an opportunity to see a state which is far more interesting than the view from I-90 would have you believe. Starting from South to North the dams are Gavin’s Point (Yankton), Ft. Randall (Pickstown/Lake Andes), Big Bend (Chamberlain/Ft. Thompson) and Oahe (Pierre, the state capitol). After our daughter’s graduation we planned a visit to a relative in the Black Hills, traveling from Vermillion to Hermosa. We made it a two night trip by way of Ft. Randall Dam and the Badlands.

Northpoint Recreation Area has some nice, long campsites.

They’re also reasonably spaced from their next door neighbors.

Ft. Randall Dam/Lake Francis Case has at least 2 state parks located near the dam. North Point Recreation area is located on the north side and just a bit up creek. It’s nicely maintained with paved roads, gravel campsites that have electrical hook-ups, and modern bathrooms whose showers have free hot water. (For those who prefer to use the provided bathrooms, hot water in the showers, without having to pay extra for it, is a big deal. We encountered state parks in Oklahoma and Nebraska who didn’t provide hot water unless some quarters were given in exchange.)

Like most reservoirs, camping, boating, fishing and hunting are some of the activities that can be found around the Mainstem dams during certain times of year. Their hydroelectric facilities are also available for tours. Since we were there for one night, it was mostly enjoying the scenery and taking the dogs for a walk. However, though it was a sunny day, our visit was during the cold spell which came to South Dakota for almost 3 weeks. Besides being chilly it was plenty windy when we arrived in the afternoon. The wind finally died down to reasonable levels in the evening, allowing Kristal to take her camera out during the golden hour for some photo taking.

Another view to the west, across a large bay which borders

the west side of the campground.

Kristal liked the strong contrast between light and dark

that the setting sun created on the hills.

Considering we were there on a Saturday, it was a pleasant surprise to have the place mostly to ourselves. Might have had something to do with the colder weather or that our visit occurred before Memorial Day. We don’t really know for sure, but it was nice.

Want to learn more about the Missouri river in South Dakota? Start at this site - http://sdmissouririver.com/. Find info on North Point Recreation Area here - http://gfp.sd.gov/state-parks/directory/north-point/. From this page you can find links which will allow you to locate all the state parks in South Dakota, including others which can also be found by the Missouri River reservoirs.

We Wouldn’t Call It Glamping…

Fortunately, this was small hail.

However, it still sounds scary when you’re in an aluminum travel trailer or tent.

While we were aware of the chance for a severe thunderstorm,

this storm still took us by surprise.

It blew in suddenly, about two hours before sunset,

while Kristal was doing rabbit playtime and chores in the tent.

She didn’t have any choice except to wait for a break in the weather

before bringing the rabbits and herself into the trailer.

We interrupt this renovation to bring you another trip! Yes, folks, we’ve done it again and took our trailer up North before completing all our projects. This time we were gone for a grand total of five weeks.

The catalyst for our latest adventure was our younger daughter’s college graduation. We ended up staying north for more than a month because she wanted us to help her relocate to another apartment. (She has no immediate plans to return to Texas.)

There have been delays to our renovation schedule for various reasons, including bad weather. However, we’ve been fortunate not to lose anything during the flooding events which have now occurred in the Houston area for two spring seasons in a row. Not being able to complete work on the trailer is a minor annoyance compared to what others have been through recently. However, getting it out of town was a minor miracle, and that was just the beginning.

Some people who come into RV ownership are those like us who already have experience with camping and/or long-distance travel. Vintage RV ownership adds another dimension to the endeavor which can be fun, but despite the public’s fondness for calling this particular past-time “Glamping”, that darling camper isn’t a perfect bubble of protection from all that is unpleasant. We’ll be the first to admit we enjoy looking at other peoples’ pretty pictures of their RVs and the places they’ve been to. Yes, our trailer, as an Airstream, is already considered a Glamper. We went to some neat places ourselves during our last trip, and will share a few pictures in upcoming posts. But this trip also included bugs; cold, stormy weather; hot, sunny days; lots of wind; and dirt. We often found ourselves wondering who invented the word “Glamping”. Had they ever camped? We didn’t think so after cleaning up muddy prints off our new floor after one of many rain storms we experienced.

A frequent newbie question we often see on forums is, “I would like to own RV (__). Where do I start?” Being honest with yourself about your budget is always a good place. There are some other things you should ask yourself, too. What is your motivation for wanting an RV in the first place? How often will you get to use it, and how far do you plan to travel with it? Do you have practical experience which will allow to you to enjoy your new acquisition with confidence? (1. Preventing emergencies. 2. Dealing with emergencies when help isn’t close.) Last, but not least. Are you willing to do some real work while you’re on vacation?

Yes, RV ownership involves real work. For the vintage crowd, restoration/renovation will have plenty of non-glamorous projects which will need to be addressed before you get to the fun stuff, like decorating. Once the projects are completed, there will be ongoing maintenance if you want to keep your baby in tip-top shape. That maintenance will also include your auxiliary equipment which helps keep you safe while traveling, or provides electricity when you don’t have shore power (Sway-control/weight distribution hitches, generators and/or solar system.) Long-distance traveling and being gone for several weeks could mean you’ll be working on your RV while on the road. Karl needed to add some grease to our sway-prevention hitch after windy wear-and-tear and some bad roads. Then the original air conditioner decided to get finicky. Fortunately, there really wasn’t anything wrong with it other than a few years of dirt.

Bringing the “comforts of home” with you generates work as well. Meals to cook, dishes to wash, cleaning house… If you travel with children, pets, or both, there will be plenty of cleaning. Oh! Don’t forget the laundry. Stay away from home long enough, and you will have to figure out where clothing and bedding will get washed, not to mention when it will fit into your travel schedule.

How much stuff you have with you will determine how long it takes to set up and break down camp. Hitching up to your trailer involves making doubly sure all connections are secure and all signals working properly before you hit the road, every single time. Staying somewhere only one or two nights? Take our advice. Don’t unhitch unless you have to, but do make sure you unplug the 7-way cord from the tow vehicle while stopped overnight (and remember to plug it back in again before leaving.)

Travelers of all kinds are vulnerable to the weather, including RVers. If your home can be destroyed by a disaster, your vehicle and RV certainly could. Even a weekend trip does not excuse you from keeping a close eye on weather conditions. Pay attention to, and heed, all advisories. Weather isn’t just a concern when you’re staying somewhere. It affects you while on the road, too. (Stormy weather from Texas well into the Great Plains states delayed leaving on our last trip by 4 days. Our daughter was getting concerned we might not be there for her graduation.) Remember the wind mentioned earlier? It not only makes being outside at your campsite less than pleasant, crosswinds with big gusts will provide plenty of white-knuckle driving. Heavy rain and/or hail, flooding, poor visibility, tornado warnings, icy conditions, extreme drought and fire hazards… are also good reasons not to be on the road or visiting a particular area. So be prepared to adjust your plans. Mother Nature doesn’t care if you have a schedule or bucket list.

If you have travel with a trailer whose interior storage space is not yet completed,

you will be living out of a suitcase.

It isn’t the end of the world, but does make it a bit trickier to pack for a longer trip.

We used a 50/50 rule for both cold and warm weather.

Still, there were some things we wished had been packed since the weather

turned unpleasant for more than 2 weeks.

Kristal got tired of having cold, wet athletic shoes so she ordered the water-proof shoes

and had them sent to our daughter’s address.

When you keep your extremities warm and dry, life is far more pleasant.

Just make sure you have a back-up plan in case you forgot something,

or didn’t have it in the first place.

We were traveling in May, and it was difficult to find cold weather necessities in stores.

The internet can be your oyster as long as you have the means to access it,

and a physical address where items can be shipped.

When making those lists of items you want to bring, don’t forget the necessities, like first aid kits for various bites/other injuries and bug repellants. Get vet records for the pets and make sure they have the appropriate insect deterrents. Most of us know flying, biting insects are just a part of life regardless of where you live. Creepy, crawly blood suckers are another matter. Urban dwellers may not be acquainted with some of those, like ticks. Also, wildlife encounters, even with smaller critters, can have bad consequences. Take time to make sure everyone in your party learns to use a little common sense, including your children. And never assume you are staying in an area where proper supervision of everyone isn’t necessary.

In addition to being a home for wildlife, tall grass and heavy underbrush are prime tick country, but even if you stay out of those areas, you may find them invading your campsite. They’re especially active in late spring and early summer. Lyme Disease is no joke.

Even though we came prepared, we still had to deal with a tick invasion right after we arrived in South Dakota. A hot day brought them out in droves. A last tick check at bedtime had us feeling pretty safe when we went to sleep. Until Kristal scratched her head at 4 a.m. and found a tick in her hair. Four out of 5 dogs had ticks too. (The topical we use on our dogs at home doesn’t include tick protection. We got an oral preventive from our vet before we left, but had to wait a week to give it since the topical had just been applied. Once the oral kicked in, it worked like a charm.) We ended up going into town for more Permethrin for the camp site and kept at least a couple of bottles on hand for the remainder of our trip. Everything inside and outside the trailer was treated. .

Enjoy the wildlife sightings. Just make sure you aren’t feeding the animals, deliberately or unintentionally. It’s a dangerous thing to do for a variety of reasons. Being tired after a long day of traveling doesn’t excuse you from securing all food, including the vittles for your pets. When we began the return journey home, our first stop was a state park in Nebraska. Traveling with 5 dogs means feeding one at a time, not in confined spaces. By the time everyone was fed and treated to a long walk around the park, we were exhausted. The pet food containers were still sitting on the picnic table. Surely, they were OK for one night. Wrong, wrong, wrong! The fact that they were left out caused Kristal a somewhat sleepless night. Finally, she couldn’t stand it anymore and got up to check on them. Two dark shadows ran away from our campsite, and she found the dog food container on the ground with its lid lying almost a foot away. She’s fairly certain the uninvited dinner guests were raccoons. You may be picturing a certain movie, “The Great Outdoors”, right now. She did too. When you do something stupid, or get lazy, finding some humor never hurts. Still, getting more dog food isn’t that easy if you feed a brand which isn’t widely available. (Kristal’s rabbits came on this trip too. Their food, easily found at a feed store, wasn’t touched. Raccoons, being omnivores, could have chosen either way. Of course, being prime opportunists, they went for the expensive dog food.)

Also be aware there are some critters you may not want to meet unintentionally. Kristal encountered a snake in the grass (literally) during our return home. It was in mowed grass, less than 2 feet from a road. She was walking one of the dogs and came very close to stepping on it. If it hadn’t reared its head, she wouldn’t have seen it. The snake didn’t seem terribly large. However, it was hard to tell. It appeared to be coiled up in a depression under the grass. What concerned Kristal was the possibility it was a rattlesnake. The shape of the head made her a bit worried, but she wasn’t going to get any closer for a positive ID. This is one of those occasions when you’re better off making an assumption. Stumble upon a snake? Unless you’re a true expert, just assume it’s poisonous. Stay calm and carefully back off. We were at a lake in Oklahoma, and the nearest town was very small. It’s doubtful the emergency services to deal with a poisonous snake bite were available there. Rattlesnakes in particular have a very large range in North America, though each region will have more than one species of poisonous reptile. We were at a modern Army Corp campground with some of the trappings of civilization – paved roads and campsites, electricity, flush toilets and hot showers. The snake encounter was a good reminder for us that tragedies can occur anywhere and a certain amount of vigilance is always a good idea. When you start taking things too much for granted, you’re more likely to have a bad experience.

You can still call RV travel “Glamping” if you wish. When you find the courage to act on them, dreams are often the catalyst for launching us on new adventures. But being able to find enjoyment in those adventures, even when they’re less than perfect, is a true gift. Just add a healthy dose of reality to your fantasies, and someday you’ll have a lifetime of special memories to cherish.