Low Tech Blinds – Construction

Have your patterns and all your supplies ready? Let’s make some blinds.

Start by placing your pattern pieces on the fabric. It doesn’t matter if you cut out the front or back pieces first. The curved sides will create a bit more waste, but it’s possible to place the pattern pieces close to each other in order to maximize fabric yardage. (I thought I took a photo of this step, but I’m not finding it on my memory card. It’s not any different than using any other flat pattern piece. In addition to designs on the fabric, you will want to make sure the grain or the nap is going the same direction on all your pieces.)

I cut out my back pieces first, then placed them on the chenille to cut out the fronts. I chose to proceed this way so there would be front/back pieces with matching edges. Since the chenille is on a 60” wide roll, right side up, the lining piece was placed right side down (right sides together).

After cutting the front piece, secure those 2 pieces together with a pin or clip and set aside if you’re planning to cut all your pieces at the same time. Don’t have a lot of workspace to accommodate unfinished pieces lying about? No problem. Make sure you’re keeping track of the way your pieces will need to be matched up when being fused together, and move to the next step.

Place the fusible web on the wrong side of one of the pieces. Line up straight edge to straight edge. Trim the web to match the side curves. Depending on size of your blinds, you may need to cut another piece of web to get full coverage. (If the front piece is not as heat tolerant, place it on the bottom, with web then lining right side up. Save your scraps. Small pieces of fusible web might be handy for other projects you might want to do later.)

Follow the directions for your fusible web to iron your blind sandwich together. Use a pressing cloth or piece of heat tolerant scrap fabric between the blind and iron. If you have any fusible web going beyond the edges, the pressing cloth will keep it off the iron. The cloth will also protect your nice fabric from the iron.

Applying the double-fold bias tape to the sides and bottom is next. You can try doing it with one piece mitered at the corners, but there is a possibility a package won’t make it all the way around. It actually looks nicer to trim one side at a time, than to have an overlap somewhere on a side. Place the edge of the blind into the open side of the tape. Make sure the blind edge is pushed all the way to the folded side of the tape. I keep the tape on the cardboard it’s wrapped around, and roll it out as I’m sewing it to the edge. It’s cut when I reach a corner.

Using a single straight stitch the bias tape is sewn to the edge of the blind. I don’t pin it, but just keep pushing it onto the edge while I’m sewing. My sewing machine has a sliding switch that allows me to adjust the machine’s speed. I keep it at the slowest speed, with the needle positioned in the middle of tape.

Bottom edge with trim.

Curved side with trim.

After the blind is trimmed make the ties from the bias tape. Each blind needs 4 ties. Mine are 18” long. Sew the ties closed either with a single stitch down the middle of the tape, or double-stitch about 1/8” from each edge.

When you have the ties ready, use a tape measure along the top edge to determine their placement. It doesn’t matter if you work from the front or back. Just make sure the ties are matched up on both sides before sewing them to the blind (2 front, 2 back). If you’re making a separate “cornice” and plan to place Velcro on the back of the blinds to assist with hanging them, cut the loop piece at least an inch shorter than the top edge of the blind. You want to keep the bulk out of the corners when you fold the flaps back. Pin the ties on the front side of the blind if using the Velcro.

Ties pinned to the front.

Even though I was using self-stick Velcro, it was applied to the back before the ties were sewn down. Start at one corner of the top edge and sew to the other, catching the Velcro and ties in the stitching. The Hook piece of Velcro can be attached later, after the blinds are completed. Just keep the tape on it until ready to hang.

Place your blind on the ironing board with one curved side facing away from you. Fold the curved edge under if the top of the blind is facing you. If you’re looking at the back, fold it toward you. Your fold line is going corner to corner, giving you a blind that’s square or rectangular from the front, depending on the shape of your window. To make the fold on blinds with heavier fabric, you may have to start by rolling the curve back until you reach the corners. Press the fold down with your hand first, then come back with the iron to press the edge.

Top-stitch about an 1/8” from the edge, just enough to catch both the front and back in the stitching. The stitching provides an edge that looks finished and helps to keep the side flaps where they belong. The flaps will be pulled to the sides of the windows after the blinds are installed.

Flaps folded to the back and top stitiched on both edges.

The flaring tool is used to curl the center down to the back.

It's the same concept used to put grommets together.

Applying the snaps is the last step. Follow the directions provided with the product you purchase, in case the ones you buy are different from the ones I used. But here are a couple of tips you might find helpful. Mark the placement of your snaps on the back of the blinds. Don’t bother with the small punch tool included with the snaps for making holes in the blinds. Instead, make a small cut with the very tip of your scissors through all layers, then push the shaft of the snap front through the opening. To pound the front and back pieces together, make sure you’re working on a solid surface which can support the use of a hammer. If your snap sets have a small flaring tool like mine did, watch your fingers. The wall part of the snaps is part snap, part screw. Go ahead and snap both sides together. After the blind tops are secured above the window, pull the bottom of the blinds to the wall and press the tips of the screws in enough to make a small mark. This mark will tell you where to install the snap screw. Tie the blinds out of the way first. (One thing to consider when determining quantity of snaps needed; for blinds which are wide, you might want to put some snaps in middle too.)

Don’t want a separate trim piece covering the top of your blinds? Purchase enough bias tape to give the top a finished edge. Leave off the Velcro, sew the ties on first, then apply the trim. You could also bring some extra of the back fabric over the top edge to the front to make contrasting trim at the top of the blind. Make sure you fold raw edges under. This is another area where you could use fusible web, or products like Heat-and-Bond and Stitch Witch. These are basically fusible web that comes in a strip which is wrapped around a spool. You will still want to top-stitch the trim edge to keep it secure and give it a finished appearance.

My blinds are secured above the windows with self-tapping metal to metal screws ¾” long. If I wasn’t making a trim piece (aka “cornice”), I would have finished the top edge and considered putting snaps at the top, too. However, I found the tiny, hand-held flaring tool to be inconvenient. Definitely put the snaps at the bottom corners for easy opening, and use screw covers to dress up your screws at the top. I found a vender pack of 50 chrome screw covers for license plates on Ebay. I’m using them to dress up the screws holding my trim pieces to the walls. Pro-dec is a vendor who sells all kinds of screw covers, both in metal and plastic. The cost of their metal covers can add up if you need a lot of them, but they do come in colors other than just silver. Their plastic covers come in many colors.

Have fun making your blinds! Please don’t hesitate to ask for assistance if the instructions aren’t clear, or you think a step was overlooked.

Kristal

Low Tech Blinds - Introduction

Sometimes the best solution to a problem is something simple; uncomplicated in design and execution.

When we purchased our trailer it had some of the original curtains, which we’re keeping, but the rest of the windows were covered with roller blinds that didn’t want to stay where they belonged. Deciding how to recover those windows was a trial and error process. Initially we thought cellular blinds were a good replacement, but after I ordered them, we couldn’t agree on the best way to mount above or secure below the windows. They were also bulkier than I cared for. They ended up being returned, and since there wasn’t anything else ready-made we felt was suitable, I cast my eye to a bolt of chenille fabric sitting in my studio.

I have made blinds for our house; the Roman type with all the cords for 6 foot square windows. Ei-yi-yi! There was no way I wanted to make something so complicated for our Airstream, even for smaller windows, so pull cords were out. The fabric I decided to use was originally for a banquette at the front of the trailer, but Karl wanted recliners instead. Since it’s upholstery fabric, I initially resisted making window coverings, but really didn’t have another purpose in mind for it. Now I’m glad I used it. We had seven windows to recover in varying sizes. I had 9 yards of 60” wide fabric. The blinds are all made now, and I have fabric leftover. With the cotton duck lining on the back, the blinds not only look polished but are more energy efficient.

Thinking of making your own custom blinds? There is not going to be a one size fits all pattern, though the basic concept is adaptable. Those who have loved and owned Airstreams know that the quantity, size, and shapes of windows will vary due to the age and model of trailer. Even within a single trailer, the windows will vary in size. Here’s a web link that provides a brief overview of Airstream windows. http://vintageairstream.com/frequently-asked-questions-faqs/windows-vents-doors/

Because of this variance, I can’t provide specific sizes for patterns or recommend the required yardage of fabric in this post. I ask anyone who needs assistance to please use the comments section of this blog, or find the Air Forums thread with the same title. I will do my best to walk you through the process. This is going to be a 3-part series. Right now we’re dealing with making patterns and getting supplies. The second post will show the construction steps. The third post will cover making an optional “cornice”.

This is one of the completed blinds with the chenille fabric rolled to the inside.

This photo doesn’t show the locking latches at the bottom of the screen frame,

but the levers are noticeable just below the upper corner.

There is also a Vista View window below.

This blind and the one next to it cover the large window and Vista View

with about 2” outside all the way around the window frames.

You need to begin with measurements. Here are the details to look for when deciding where to measure. Do you want your blinds to go beyond the frames which contain the window screens? Is any hardware protruding thru the frames, such as levers to open/close and latches to secure the windows? If so, you have two choices. Either make the blinds small enough to fit inside the hardware, or find a way to close the sides of the blinds. The curved flap on the side of our blinds was actually designed to accommodate the hardware on our windows, but had the side benefit of hugging the wall. You just want to make sure you’re measuring a bit beyond these items so the front of the blinds covers them with some room to spare. By creating something which follows the contour of the wall, privacy is no longer an issue, either. I ended up adding side flaps to the blind for our large picture window which doesn’t open. Without the flaps, there was still a gap between the blind and the curved walls. I found 3 – 3.5” inches at the widest point of the flaps was enough to close up the sides of all the blinds.

Side view of one of the finished blinds.

The center of the curve, the widest point of the flap, is 3” wide.

From that point the flaps curves back gradually to the top and bottom corners.

Once you have your measurements, making patterns and determining fabric yardage are the next steps. I have a 4 ft. wide roll of pattern-making paper which was originally 400 yds. long, an item which has actually been in my studio for a couple of years. I find it handy because it has a 1” grid pattern of letters and numbers that I can just count out. I also have plenty of uses for big pieces of paper. For those not wanting to purchase a large roll, there are many options for finding smaller quantities of assorted pattern making materials. Just make sure you’re getting a width that will allow you to cut out your largest pattern in one piece. In the event you have a few windows with the same measurements, you only need to make one pattern for all of them. Another way to save paper is to make half a pattern designed for the folded fabric that comes on some bolts. However, making a full pattern allows you to test it on the window before cutting any fabric.

It’s difficult to tell from the camera angle, but the top and bottom edges

of this pattern piece are the same width.

You’ll notice it was folded twice.

After the front measurements were counted out, all 4 corners were marked with an X.

Three additional inches were added to each side before cutting the pattern out.

The curves were made by folding the pattern twice, marking the curve in one corner

and cutting it. (Think of it as similar to making paper snowflakes.)

Just make sure you keep track of the top/bottom of your pattern once folded

 so you cut the curve out of the sides.

If you own one, a dressmaker’s (French) curve can help you mark your cutting line

from the center of the flap to the corner.

This image is an update as of 04/08/2016.
I had made some paper patterns for someone, but they didn't arrive
when the carrier said they were supposed to.
I made full-size digital versions to email since they had access to a plotter.
(The original patterns arrived today.)
It occurred to me that I could scale one of the patterns down and use it as an image here.
This is what a pattern looks like lying flat. 
The vertical lines show where the flaps would be folded back and top-stitched.

Ready for fabric? For those who have a finished interior or know what their plans are, they may already have a fabric in mind. Backing the blinds with another fabric is a matter of personal choice, but if you decide to do it, I strongly recommend “gluing” the 2 pieces together with fusible web before adding trim and fasteners. It will keep the blinds smooth and much tidier in appearance both closed and rolled open. Don’t know what you want? The era of your trailer can be a starting point. Retro is showing up everywhere, including the patterns on fabric. Just make sure you pay close attention to the design’s direction. Random patterns can give some leeway when you’re cutting more than one item from your yardage, otherwise make sure patterns with obvious directions are all going the same way. The same is also true for fabrics with a nap, like velvet, ultra suede or chenille. Keep the nap going in the same direction on all the blinds, or they could look like they’re different colors.

In the US, fabrics come in widths from about 44” up to 60”. (Some are wider, usually for making items like blankets.) Narrower widths might be less expensive per yard, but more yards may be needed. Wider widths may cost more, but you may need fewer yards. So don’t use fabric width as a guide for saving money. Type of fabric has more influence over cost. Fade-resistant, easy-to-clean outdoor fabrics could be a good choice for this application. But even within that category, you can find some significant differences in price per yard. Stores like Joann will have fabrics with their name printed on the selvage, a “store brand” if you will. Sunbrella is a name brand fabric. It usually costs more.

Teal/dark blue chenille, dark blue cotton duck, double fold ½” bias tape and snap kit.

The snap kit contains 6 sets of snaps.

The fusible web isn’t pictured here, but you need plenty of it to get full coverage.

It comes in a single width on the bolt, so a larger blind will need a couple of pieces.

Unless you’re getting the heavy-duty web, try not to buy the paper-backed stuff.

You will find it frustrating to peel away from a large piece of web.

There isn’t a right or wrong when choosing fabric, but there are some types which might not be the best choice. I would definitely recommend staying away from anything that unravels very easily, or has no tolerance for an iron if you are using fusible web. Clear care instructions and fiber content should be on the label at the end of a bolt, otherwise, ask a store employee for assistance. Some home décor fabrics come on a roll instead. There should be tags hanging from them that show fabric content and price per yard. Sometimes this information will be in a plastic pocket which also includes some swatches. No swatches? No problem. Usually, a store employee is willing to cut off a small corner when asked nicely. Online retailers will often offer swatches as well. Some provide them as a courtesy, others sell them. It’s really a good idea to get some swatches before making a decision, especially if ordering fabric. Don’t trust your computer monitor to be true to color.

When you’re ready, we’ll move on to the construction phase.

Kristal

The Other Set of Wheels

Unless you plan to keep you vintage RV stationary, there is another part of the equation that must be considered before you start your grand adventures. That would be the motorized part of it.

In the vintage world there are both travel trailers and motor homes. Believe it or not, they have been around for about the same amount of time. (No, we’re not counting the Conestoga wagons taken West by the pioneers. Those were Uhauls.) By and large travel trailers are probably the more popular of the two, for a variety of reasons we won’t delve into here.

This post is about tow vehicles. When we’re dreaming it can be easy to forget about practicalities. But having a tow vehicle and trailer who are well matched is one of those equations which influence safety (yours and fellow motorists) while on the road. If you have a car, small SUV or pick-up, you might not be towing a 30ft., or larger, trailer. You would be better off with a small pop-up, teardrop or baby canned ham. A well equipped full-size SUV or 1/2-ton pick-up (Ford F150, Chevy 1500, Dodge 1500) might allow you to move up into the 20 – 30ft. size. Anything larger than that will require the heavy-duty pickups or even a small semi-truck. There is also the option of matching your tow vehicle to the same era as your trailer, but the rules governing safe towing still apply.

Getting the perfect match means doing your homework, especially if you’ve never towed anything. And you need to complete this step before you start shopping. Knowing how to decipher manufacturer labels is the name of the game. There are various sites on the internet where you can begin your towing education, such as the blog “The Long, Long Honeymoon”. As would be expected, most of the RV forums have plenty of information too. Besides those places, we recommend looking for opportunities to get real, hands-on experience. Some RV support groups, such as Good Sam and Escapees, offer education opportunities (RVing 101 or RV boot-camp) that cover towing, safety while traveling, and how to operate all the systems normally found in an RV. Even some semi-truck driving schools, trade schools and community colleges offer courses in RV towing and/or Class A RV’s.

Once you get beyond the initial education, you have some serious decisions to make. Don’t think you’re in the market for a tow a vehicle? Check with your mechanic and get their opinion on your present vehicle’s potential to tow a travel trailer. Any vehicle being used to pull a trailer should have a tow package. If you aren’t sure your vehicle has one, your mechanic is the best person to give the answer you need. On some vehicles, the tow package is not standard equipment. Even the large vehicles don’t always come with it, because optional items always add to the cost when you’re buying new. A good, well-rounded mechanic should also be able to help you translate the door labels on your vehicle and hitch. This is where manufacturers usually put a vehicle’s specs. Once you know the capacity of your vehicle, and your vehicle is properly equipped, you can start shopping for a travel trailer.

The other half of the equation is found on the metal labels trailer manufacturers put on their products. Sometimes that information may have disappeared during a trailer’s existence. It’s also possible the unit might actually be homemade. The only way to get a weight in those instances is to find the info on the title or take the RV to a weigh station. Trailers which still have their label will have 2 numbers; one when it’s empty and the maximum allowable weight when fully loaded. Knowing the total weight of your loaded trailer is a big part of towing safety. The larger number on the RV tag shouldn’t exceed your tow vehicle’s capacity. In fact, it’s better to keep the total weight under. (Some RV owners feel up to 20% less is a good range.)Because it’s not just about whether the vehicle can pull, but can stop what is behind it.

Most of the time, trailer length and weight will go hand and hand. However, there are occasional surprises. Vintage trailers made with aircraft-style construction methods were often the ultra-lights of their day. A longer trailer may not weigh as much as you think. Still, never assume anything. (Note the first three letters of the half-bold word.) You also need to be honest with yourself about your comfort level. The difficulties of towing (and backing up) increase with the length of your RV. Know your own limitations. Some people are just not comfortable towing something that is longer than the vehicle being driven.

In case you’re wondering why this topic now, our tow vehicle situation has been a bit fluid lately. When we were trailer shopping the vehicle we already owned went with us. (Literally and figuratively.) As you will note in the above picture, it’s an older model; a 1999 Ford Expedition, to be exact. There can be a number of reasons to hold onto an older vehicle. The biggest one usually has to do with the budget. Ours is paid for, has less than 110K miles, and for the most part has been reliable. It also doesn’t cost so much to insure it, a big deal when living in a large urban area.

We will admit to taking a look at other options whenever an issue has cropped up. But shopping for a replacement never gets very far because we just don’t care for the prices of new vehicles in the size we need. Vehicles 5 years old or less haven’t pleased us much either. It’s not necessarily because they’re in terrible condition (though we’ve encountered a couple of those), but many of them have higher mileage than Old Silver and dealers still want more for them than what our first house cost. It just doesn’t make good financial sense for us to spend huge sums of money on something that doesn’t hold value. When we’ve encountered items needing replacement or repair, we had a serious discussion with our mechanic about options. Modifications that would make the Expedition better suited for the trailer we’re pulling were part of the conversion. We have an amazing mechanic who knows our vehicle very well. After comparing his estimates to the cost of buying something else, it was very easy to decide we didn’t need a different vehicle. Why pay lots of money for something else only to find it cuts into our budget too much, and we couldn’t travel the way we want to?

Fortunately, the changes we needed to make could be spread out, though we do have a deadline. So after the trailer came back home, the truck went in for the last items, a transmission cooler and rear air-bag conversion kit. Though air- bag suspension is considered an upgrade by auto manufacturers, the cost of replacing it with a more traditional suspension system was way more cost-effective. Our air bags were also wearing out and running down vehicle batteries well before their time. The last time it happened to us, we were running errands close to home. Fortunately, the battery was less than a year old and under warranty. The new, heavy-duty coil suspension doesn’t need the battery to do its job properly, making it one less thing to worry about on our next adventure.

For those who have determined you need to purchase a tow vehicle, the better educated you are about your specific needs the better off you are. Don’t rely on a dealership to educate you. If you think leasing might be a better option, you need to pay close attention to the fine print. How many miles is the vehicle allowed to travel during a year? Will you be able to visit all of the places on your wish list? Can you even lease a vehicle with a tow package? If so, what limitations is the dealership placing on your use of their property as a tow vehicle?

We realize topics like this kind of suck the fun out of dreams, which are often fueled by the images others post of their darling RVs, and all the interesting places they travel to. But the nuts and bolts have to be addressed first, before you even consider hitting the road. If you’ve ever encountered an accident involving an RV, you probably noticed it looked really serious. It’s very rare someone doesn’t get hurt, and all the vehicles involved, including the RV, are often a total loss. If you’re going to invest a considerable amount of time and money into any RV, you owe it to yourself to make sure you and your family can enjoy it safely.

You can start your education right now by honestly evaluating your driving habits. Find yourself driving offensively? Start checking yourself now. Offensive driving, speeding and RVs just don’t mix. Put down the cell phone, or better yet turn it off and put it out of reach when you’re driving. Distracted driving is already a big issue with many accidents caused by drivers, whose attention just isn’t where it should be. And they’re not towing anything! Defensive driving and knowing where others are at all times is absolutely essential. By necessity, RVs need to travel a bit slower, take a longer time to make lane changes and usually need to swing wider when making turns.

When you’re ready to embark on your adventures, we look forward to encountering you. The RV community really is a community whose members are usually far more friendly than society in general. Many are often ready to lend a helping hand when needed. You won’t regret joining our ranks.

Bon Voyage.

Putting Your Vintage Treasure Back on the Road

Our next large project was replacing the dual axles on our trailer. Just like holding tanks, it’s not the sexiest of items one must tackle to have a fully functioning vintage RV. It shouldn’t be ignored, either. Have your heart set on an Airstream in particular? Depending on the age and maintenance history of your model, just plan on replacing the axles at some point during your ownership. Airstream started using torsion axles during the 1960s. Most torsion axles have a life-span of 25 years (according to the experts). Regardless of axle type and depending on condition, many vintage trailers’ axles may need replaced. We strongly recommend getting an expert opinion regarding the axles, especially if your trailer is going to be used for travel. Corroded axles and worn suspensions just aren’t safe. Eventually failure of these parts can occur. They can do significant damage to numerous things too; such as premature tire wear, uneven load balance and increased likelihood of nasty accidents.

When it comes to the axles and suspensions for Airstreams, you deal with replacement in a couple of ways. Plenty of information can be found on sites like Airforum concerning axles. Start there before making any decisions.  You will find some DIYers who did the axel prep and installed themselves; other DIYers who ordered complete axles from someone who specializes in Airstream parts, and installed them themselves; a few who ordered the parts and paid someone else for installation,  and others who had the repair shop handle everything. What you decide to do should be based on what best suites your circumstances. When it comes to cost, the adage “You get what you pay for” definitely applies. There are only a couple of suppliers who deal with direct Henschen replacement axles (that we could find), and yes, it does affect cost. But here’s the advantage these specialists have. They can use the Airstream VIN/Serial number to ensure the new axles match your trailer’s specifications. Torsion axles made for Airstream from the 1960s on should have a metal label from the manufacturer. The specialists will want that information also, because the label not only has axle specs but date of manufacture as well. (There is always the possibility a PO has replaced original axles with something else and may have made significant modifications to the trailer to do so.)

We chose a parts specialist and ordered our axles as a complete set, which means they came with new brakes. An added bonus of ordering new axles is newer technology, such as a balancing kit, self adjusting brakes and an easier method of lubing the hubs. If axles are replaced, the shocks should be too. The types of shocks used on Airstreams are quite a bit different than shocks found on other trailers. Again, a qualified supplier is best in determining the correct shocks. Make sure your new axles include the connections for installing the shocks. 

Torsion axles can be notoriously tricky when trying to determine if they’re past their prime. They have rubber rods on the inside that make these axles more than just holders for your tires, but also part of the suspension system. From what we could find, you have a few options to help guide you in determining condition. Lots of rust on the axles and all connecting parts are one indicator. Other signs that point to replacement: how straight the axles are hub to hub (they should have a slight bow up), how far the wheels come up in the fender well (the fender covers the top of tire just a bit), and do any of your tires look like they’re bending inward? (This is much easier to see on dual axles). Check all the tires for wear. Are any uneven? Either tires haven’t been properly maintained with rotation etc., or the axles are bad. We found most of this information in online articles. It’s a good idea to look these up. Make sure they have accompanying photos to aid your diagnostics. Beyond these methods, the only other way to determine if the rods are bad is to cut an axle open. Once you do that the axle is no longer usable.

(If you are in the market for a vintage trailer, make sure you are armed with information concerning good or bad condition of all the major functional parts. Price all the things you’re most likely to replace. We found from the forum you can enlist the help of very knowledgeable people that may live in your area who are willing to go with you to look at a dream traveling candidate)

Changing the axles is a major job we decided to outsource. We don’t have a shop of our own; our driveway is a bit too steep; and for liability reasons it just wasn’t a good idea to use our storage space. This winter, we have also had a lot of wind in our area. If you decide to do the work yourself and don’t have an indoor space to complete the task, you will need to keep a close eye on the weather. In order to change the axles, your trailer has to be lifted up a bit. Also consider that proper disposal of the old axles is your responsibility.

Our new axles were shipped to an RV repair shop located on the south side of Houston. The owner has been acquainted with our supplier since 1969, and he recommended them. The trailer went to the shop a month ago and came home last week.

Preparing the axles to our trailer’s specifications took our supplier about 2 weeks, with delivery occurring a week later. That seems to be standard, but the time of year you order can make a difference. We ordered our axles at the end of December. The manufacturer had been closed for 3 weeks during the holidays. Fortunately for us, our order was placed shortly before they returned to work, so we didn’t experience a significant delay. Meaning we were able to keep the tentative appt. arranged with the repair shop.

Just a reminder: For any project where you want the help of professionals, make sure you plan far enough ahead not only to get your parts in a timely manner, but to assure the repair shop can schedule the work in the time-frame you need. We got serious about the purchase of our axles in Oct. 2015. By the beginning of Nov. we had decided on the parts provider, determined when those parts fit in our budget, and made arrangements with the repair shop (the parts were being sent directly to them after all). RV repair shops, whether attached to dealers or stand alone, are in high demand. There aren’t as many of them as there are places to fix autos. At most places you just can’t show up for service, unless it is some sort of emergency. But even in an emergency, repairs can take some time depending on your location and what the issue is. Your choices narrow considerably when you want work done on a vintage trailer (think trailer restoration shops, which our shop does as well.) We were thankful to receive a recommendation, saving us a considerable amount of research time (though even on recommendations it is a good idea to check the shop’s history). Still, the repair shop which best suited our needs is a fair distance from us. We live just North of Houston, while they are on the south side. Since this distance includes some big city driving, we had to plan accordingly with respect to rush hour(s). That is not a time to be towing something if brakes are iffy.

Bob Jones RV repair shop did the work we needed, and our experience was very positive. We highly recommend their shop for any type of needed RV services; from repairs, to ordering parts and appliances. (Bob Jones RV, if you visit us here; feel free to toot your horn in the comments. In fact, if you would like to do a guest post, even a short one, consider this your invitation.) The other items on our wish list, such as our signal light bugaboo, have been dealt with. We no longer have to make ourselves crazy trying to sort them out. Along with the new axles and brakes, fully functioning safety lights will allow us to hit the road with confidence. And once we get the gray and black tanks back into the trailer, we can start focusing on the fun interior stuff.